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The Many Riojas of Rioja: A Tale of Forking Paths (Apr 2024)

The 2019 Aro is a blend of 70% Tempranillo and 30% Graciano sourced from Rioja Alta and aged for 18 months in new French oak barrels. Dark garnet in color, the nose offers notes of cigar box and cedar, accompanied by plum marmalade and herbal aromas over a vanilla layer. On the palate, it is…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 L’If offers blackberry, cedar and mint aromas on a nose that needs time to coalesce, but eventually reveals harmony and focus. The new oak is very well assimilated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, and pliant in the mouth, delivering gentle grip toward the creamy-textured finish. This is an extremely impressive wine…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 L’If, 100% Merlot in this vintage, is going to need a number of years to be at its very best. The allure the 2016 showed as a young barrel sample has been replaced with huge structure and prominent yet well balanced tannins that both give the wine its strong-voiced personality. Readers should be…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru has a lime-driven bouquet, touches of orange pith, not much in the way of mineralité, though it does develop an intriguing liquorice scent with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a smooth, honeyed entry, white chocolate infused citrus fruit. Vanillary at the moment with a seductive finish. Delicious…but where…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2006)

Good ruby-red. Rich, smoky, expressive aromas of plum, currant, licorice, tobacco, game and leather. Suave and lush in the mouth, with explosive flavors of currant and graphite. Quite suave and pliant, offering excellent balance and full, broad, well-buffered tannins. This is just over 14% alcohol. The non-decanted version showed aromas of plum, redcurrant, mocha and…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Modestly saturated pale red. Inviting, complex aromas of dark cherry, blueberry, blackberry and graphite minerality. At once rich and powerful; in a rather masculine style but without any hard edges. Finishes very long, with tannins nicely supported by the wine’s mid-palate material. But this grand cru is still very young and in need of patience.