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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Grand Puy Lacoste, which was vinified in epoxy-lined concrete vats, was tasted at the château with Emeline Borie. Borie remarked that it evinced a more rustic approach at the estate, and to honest, it did not impress. A week later, I took my own bottle that I had acquired via a West Country…

Chianti Classico: The Stellar 2015s and Surprising 2014s (Jan 2018)

The 2015 Chianti Classico is a lovely, midweight wine to drink now and over the next few years. Stylistically, the Classico is quite a bit more restrained than most of the other wines in the range. Freshness and aromatic presence are the signatures.

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Village offers darker fruit than the Clos du Château, beautifully defined with hints of dried rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth entry, quite fresh and saline. Filigree tannins and a dab of soy wrap around the composed finish. Delightful.

The Lord Giveth…Burgundy 2023 (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux 1er Cru has a minerally bouquet that is a little more pixelated and brighter than the Les Evocelles. There is wonderful focus and heart-warming purity of fruit, equally red and black. Elegant and poised, the palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. It is not a powerful Gevrey-Chambertin, but it has…

Further Inroads Into Burgundy 2020 (May 2022)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux 1er Cru, matured in 50% new oak, has a complex bouquet with brambly red fruit, cranberry, sous-bois and iris flower scents that unfolds wonderfully in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy dark berry fruits that exert a gentle grip, structured and linear with a granular texture on the…

1978 Piemonte Retrospective at Eleven Madison Park (Nov 2012)

These three 1978s from Bruno Giacosa were all lovely. None are considered among his very best work by thecognoscenti, so they remain somewhat under the radar, but they are jewels just the same. The 1978 Barolo Pugnane was pretty, if a touch frail. Like the Arione, any remaining bottles should be drunk up, unless they are sitting in a…