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2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon Rosé has finally started to fill out. A bit. Rose petal, pink grapefruit, white pepper, slate, mint and sage gradually appear in the glass. The 2008 remains rather austere, befitting a cold vintage with what has now become a very rare October harvest. Vibrant and yet also clenched, the 2008 still…

Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Full medium yellow. A touch of musky yeasty reduction to the aromas of lemon, fresh pineapple and white pepper. Slightly tart lemony fruit is hardened by a faint herbaceousness and an edge of acidity, turning a bit green and peppery on the finish, perhaps partly due to incomplete stem ripeness. Still fresh but this will…

2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

(around 14% alcohol): Pale greenish-yellow. Musky, iodiney aromas of pineapple, resin, honey and spicy oak. An intensely mineral wine with almost painful cut to its tactile flavors of menthol, honey, spice oils and peppermint. This extremely dense wine conveys a strong impression of dry extract but is more about saline minerality and soil tones than…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2010 Montrachet Grand Cru has an arresting, flinty nose, displaying a very slight reduction that is pitched just right. Superb tension and intensity. The palate has ample weight, again, full of electricity and vigor, with just a touch of viscosity (interestingly, more than the 2003 that I had tasted just an hour earlier). I…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1978-2015 (Jun 2019)

I can’t think of a better or more appropriate wine to bring the evening to a close than the 2010 Montrachet, a vintage that marries power and elegance like few before it. Dense and powerful in the glass, with tremendous textural richness, the 2010 shows remarkable transparency, with layers of citrus peel, crushed rock, slate,…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Bright yellow. Reticent nose smells softer than the Batard, offering scents of ripe stone fruits, grilled almond, ginger, smoke and musky white flowers. Big and plush in the mouth, conveying a considerably sweeter impression than the Batard. This wonderfully silky, seamless wine mounts in volume on the back half, finishing very ripe but dry, with…