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Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999 (May 2019)

The 1998 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru is remarkably youthful in colour (I confess to guess it to be just 4 or 5 years old!) It has quite precocious blue and red fruit on the nose, again, quite unevolved, as if refusing to let go of its primary fruit. The palate is well structured…

Australia Brings the Brawn and the Beauty (Oct 2017)

Opaque ruby. An array of ripe dark fruit and floral scents are accompanied by suggestions of candied licorice, cracked pepper and allspice. Sweet and seamless in texture, offering primary black raspberry and cherry flavors and a hint of candied violet. Fine-grained tannins frame a very long, juicy finish that leaves a sappy dark berry note…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 1985 Figeac ought to be one of the decade”s great wines à la Cheval Blanc; however, several bottles have never convinced me that this is a top-grade Figeac. The bouquet is fully mature with remnants of red fruit, garrigues, decaying brown leaves and bay. The palate is well balanced and autumnal, elegant with a…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 50/50 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 50% selection for the grand vin; 50% new oak) Deep ruby. Deep, restrained aromas of black plum, blackcurrant, graphite and black pepper: very typical of merlot on calcaire, where this variety usually expresses itself with much darker fruit. Then thick, rich and satisfying on the palate, with…

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2010 Pibran should have been one of the highlights of this vertical, but unfortunately, it took no fewer than four attempts to find a representative bottle. The results are similar to previous notes. Fresh blackberry and blueberry on the nose are accompanied by hints of pressed violet and cold stone. The palate is medium-bodied…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright ruby-red. Vibrant aromas of black cherry, licorice, minerals, cigar box and cedary oak. Juicy and fine-grained, showing unusual clarity and class for this Pauillac. A lovely balance of sweetness and acidity gives this wine plenty of early personality. Finishes with suave, building tannins and very good energy. Less austere than usual for this…