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Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru feels a bit volatile on the nose, displaying touches of pear and lemongrass but missing a little cohesion and freshness. The palate has good weight and a waxy texture, but it lacks tension and mineralité, and the finish is monotone compared to its peers. This was a curious…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Bright light yellow. Aromas of yellow peach, smoke and hazelnut convey a leesy complexity. Displays yellower flavors than the 2017 version yet retains a light touch, thanks to its sound acidity. In a rather masculine style, finishing long and quite dry, with dusty tannins, repeating nutty notes and a note of mineral austerity. Assistant winemaker…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has quite a precocious bouquet of ample white peach, citrus lemon, smoke and flint aromas that gather momentum in the glass. The palate is saline on the entry. There is fine depth here, and good tension, if not quite the complexity and precision of its peers on the finish. A…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Pale, bright yellow. Lemon zest, orange oil and crushed stone on the nose, with strong calcaire pungency. Densely packed, fine-grained and pliant, showing lovely subtle sweetness to its intense flavors of lemon, lime and crushed stone. This very deep, sappy wine possesses the stuffing and extract to make its alcohol virtually disappear. Very long and…

Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Jul 2012)

Bright, pale green. Subtle, delicate aromas of white peach, mint, crushed stone and chlorophyll. Less complex today than the Preuses but this is still an infant. All about white peach lifted by white pepper. Fine-grained, silky and utterly vibrant wine, delivering outstanding density and fullness without weight. Great slowly mounting finish promises much more to…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(10% new oak): Bright medium red. Captivating nose offers aromas of cherry, brown spices, mocha, menthol and underbrush lifted by high notes of blood orange and flowers. Liqueur-like raspberry and spice flavors show outstanding precision and perfume thanks to a firm mineral spine. Finishes spicy, refined and very long, saturating the mouth without leaving any…