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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, which contains around 60% whole bunch, has a well-defined bouquet of ebullient dark berry fruit laced with light woodland and earthy scents. So much vigor and coiled-up energy! The palate is medium-bodied with wonderful balance, supple tannins, perfectly judged acidity and a crescendo of flavors toward the splendid, mineral-driven finish….

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(tasted from tank, after fining): Bright, light yellow. Restrained aromas of lemon, minerals and flint. Juicy, lemony and brisk, with underlying minerality giving the broad mid-palate a light touch. Best today on the echoing, dusty finish, which really piques the taste buds.

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Impressive saturated ruby color. Pure, classic Pauillac aromas of black cherry, bitter chocolate, menthol and flowers. Very intensely flavored, precise and penetrating, with an extremely primary flavor of cassis. Almost magically light on its feet owing to its rather strong acidity. A very young, extremely long wine with great tensile strength. May yet merit a…

Vinous Table: Grouse Club @ The Bull, Charlbury, UK (Sep 2025)

The 1989 Pichon Baron is a wine that I have enjoyed many times, and it is just wonderful. Graphite and tobacco interlace on the intense, black-fruited nose that could only be born in Pauillac, old school in some ways and yet still brimming with vigour. The palate has fabulous balance, impressive weight and backbone, with…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Mouchère 1er Cru is a little more terse on the nose, but I appreciate that. Light sea spray and oyster shell scents emerge with time. The palate lacks some depth and freshness, is a little oxidative and seems to fatigue in the glass. Short-term. Tasted blind at the Burgfest…

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Corton Clos de Corton Grand Cru has a very simple, introverted and earthy nose that lacks vigor, with black rather than red fruit, white pepper and Provençal herbs. The palate is medium-bodied with a very pliant entry. Harmonious, if rather low in acidity, it runs out of ideas two-thirds of the way through….