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Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Beaune Clos des Mouches 1er Cru feels a little static at the moment compared to its peers with plush, slightly confit-like red fruit and the oak conspicuous at present. It’s not overbearing, just a little trop. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy ripe, black fruit laced with charcoal and brine notes, gentle in…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(average production in this large holding was 28 hectoliters per hectare, with potential alcohol ranging from 12.8% to 13.2% in the various lots; vinified with 25% whole clusters): Healthy medium red. Deep nose displays red and darker berries accented by spices, minerals and flowers; ultimately a bit blacker in character than the Grèves. Also more…

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

Heidsieck’s 2006 Brut Rosé Vintage offers good immediacy and plenty of intensity, both of which make it quite appealing. Still a bit tight, the 2006 could use another year or more in bottle to soften. Although light in color, the 2006 packs a pretty serious punch. Hints of orange zest, chalk and white pepper add…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

Though I have not been a huge fan of the 1986 Latour, this is undoubtedly the best bottle I have encountered. Deep and youthful, it offers black fruit and a strong stony/dusty element that clarifies with aeration, though it remains slightly disjointed. The palate is medium-bodied and solid with its gritty tannin. Firm with a…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

Ruby-red. Brooding nose offers dark plum, blueberry, menthol and violet aromas. Fresh and clean in the mouth, showing dense flavors of cassis, black cherry and black pepper that persist nicely. Finishes chewy and persistent, with slightly chunky tannins, a building chocolatey nuance and very good freshness. Still young, but less exotic and chocolatey than some…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright red-ruby. Pure, high-pitched nose offers blueberry, dark chocolate, menthol and cedary oak. Suave, sweet and serious, with lovely inner-mouth lift and energy and sneaky density of texture. Hints of pepper and herbs serve to perk up the wine. Not a particularly chocolatey style for Branaire. Finishes with a lovely light touch and plenty of…