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1971 x 50 (Feb 2021)

The 1971 Barbaresco comes as a revelation in terms of its precocity after so many years, partly because it came from a double magnum. Quite deep in colour, it offered seductive aromas of black plums, mulberry, boot polish and just a slither of marmalade. Silky smooth and plush on the palate, there is a melted…

Festa di Barolo (Jan 2008)

Angelo Gaja’s Barolo Sperss from the 1988 vintage was added as a last-minute surprise. It enjoyed a very strong showing as it revealed considerable fruit and freshness, both attributes which today are rare in many wines of the vintage.

2014 Germany: Riesling Resists Rain on the Rhine (May 2016)

Marine-breeze alkaline and saline notes, black tea smokiness and a hints of framboise distillate penetrate the nostrils, and the mineral complexity that follows on the polished, expansive (even at 12.8% alcohol), remarkably buoyant palate does not disappoint the expectations aroused by the nose. At the same time, there is an infectious abundance of white peach,…

Rheinhessen 2018: Revelatory Rieslings (Nov 2020)

A high-toned, penetrating aromatic display features mint, thyme, iris, honeysuckle, zesty lime and prominently pit-inflected white peach. Shades of this year’s Hubacker: The palate impression here is almost shocking for its sheer lusciousness of fruit, with drippingly ripe honeydew melon joining the peach and lime. Not that this beauty is wanting for Abtserde-typical inner-mouth floral…

Rheinhessen Riesling 2016: The Triumph of Subtlety (May 2018)

Fresh lime and white peach, iris, thyme, chalk and marine minerals are all intimated on the nose, then reconvene on a silken, buoyant, generously juicy palate. Even more than usual, the wine displays an intricate – almost lacy – complexity of herbal, floral, fruit and mineral elements, as well as a clarity that surpasses that…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Pink with an orange rim and a vigorous mousse. Deep cherry, berry skin, spiced nuts and flowers on the nose, brightened by blood orange and smoky minerals. Taut, finely etched red berry and citrus flavors gain flesh with air, taking a turn to bitter cherry, toffee apple and yellow plum. Sappy, lightly chewy and concentrated,…