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Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

Strangely, this is my first note on the 1990 Yquem, a vintage tasted many times. Now 35 years old, it has an enticing bouquet of wild honey, barley sugar, crème brûlée and figs that billows with aeration, certainly more opulent than the ’89 but quite irresistible. The palate is vibrant and poised, weighty with plenty…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Deep purple-tinged ruby. Telltale flamboyant Bourgneuf aromas of red cherry, dark plum, fig, coriander and Oriental spices. Enters fresh, then turns sweet and dense in the middle, showing very good depth to the red and black fruit flavors. An element of stony minerality adds further complexity on the long, creamy finish. An excellent Bourgneuf: if…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Readers will have to be very patient with the 2015 Angélus. Massively tannic and forbidding, Angélus is one of the most reticent, unyielding 2015s I tasted. The high percentage of Cabernet Franc, the approach to extraction, aging in the cellar – which involves minimal racking and low S02 – and slightly late bottling are some…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Angélus has a ripe and generous bouquet with black cherry, espresso, dark chocolate and peppermint aromas, but it doesn't have the precision of the best Right Bank wines. The palate is very plush and forward, with velvety tannins and hints of chocolate chips infusing the red fruit. It's another 2015 that inches toward…

A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 2018 Lafleur is a great Pomerol, though it would take the bronze medal in a three-way race against the 2019 and 2020. Like many Bordeaux wines from this hot solar vintage, it has a powerful nose with precocious black fruit, black truffle and clove, veins of blueberry emerging with aeration, though it does not…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Lafleur is mesmerizing. What a wine! The aromatics alone are spellbinding. There is no need to actually taste the 2018 to know how profound it is. Silky and caressing, with phenomenal persistence, the 2018 is a total knock-out. Spice, cedar, blood orange, sage, mint, rose petal and kirsch all race out of the…