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Central Tuscany 2003 and 2004: A Tale of Two Vintages
 (June 2007)

The 2004 Sassicaia is a lovely, understated effort. Medium in body, it presents nuanced layers of sweet dark fruit, licorice, menthol and toasted oak that gradually open onto a finely-knit frame of notable length. Today it appears to be quite reticent and still holding back much of its potential. Both bottles I sampled showed less…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Black-ruby to the rim. Remarkably vibrant red and black fruit, mineral, and licorice nose has an almost Chambolle-like framboise tang to it. Massive on the palate; tremendous extract. As dense as this is now, it already shows remarkable clarity and depth of flavor. Powerful structure and length, with extraordinary subtlety of flavor. Based on the…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1990 Petrus has a beautifully defined nose with potent red fruit aromas. To use a phrase employed in my previous note five years ago, this is “sensual and warm,” once again, that eucalyptus tincture identified prior to the wine being revealed. The palate is velvety in texture and impressive in depth, with a little…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)

(a blend of 79% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 10% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot; 3.54 pH; 6.03 g/l total acidity; 81 IPT; 13.2% alcohol): Fully saturated bright ruby. Currently in a slightly dumb phase and aromatically compressed on the nose, revealing cool blackberry and cassis aromas with extended aeration, complicated by notes of cola,…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Deep ruby-red. Deeply pitched aromas of inky cassis, licorice, mocha and smoky, nutty oak. Fairly large-scaled and layered but dominated by its acid/tannin spine in the early going, displaying firm, coolish flavors of black plum, licorice and graphite. The lingering finish features substantial but ripe tannins. Give this at least a few years of cellaring…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2006 Lynch-Bages has an airy bouquet, open but missing the same fruit intensity as other vintages. Light wild hedgerow, bilberry and touches of seaweed emerge but never fully get into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rigid tannins that frame the dusky black fruit. More austere than vintages from this era, it…