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Vinous Table: Elystan Street, London, United Kingdom (Sep 2020)

The second bottle, from an estate I know like the back of my hand, was the 1996 Pontet Canet. One or two people had suggested that this might be past its best; after all, it predates the innovations and application of biodynamics overseen by Alfred Tesseron by several years. On the contrary, it has aged…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Blackcurrant, plum, tobacco and black olive nose is more complex and serious than that of either of the foregoing vintages. Thick, grapey and concentrated; still quite primary. This shows the fat and depth of the ’96 vintage in the northern Medoc. Finishes long, with substantial tannins. Impressive.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Clerc Milon has a rustic, ferrous bouquet of sous-bois, cedar and tobacco scents and slightly faded fruit; touches of eucalyptus emerge with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a supple opening and pliant tannins, though there is a touch of coarseness toward the finish. Modest in weight, this is an open-knit, old-school Pauillac…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Medium-deep red-ruby. Aromatic nose combines cassis, minerals, mint, shoe polish and sexy oak. Suave and atypically showy for a recently bottled Clerc-Milon. This has lovely racy cassis and mineral flavors, a smooth texture and attractively restrained sweetness. Finishes aromatic and long, with thoroughly ripe tannins.

1997 Vintage Ports (May 2000)

Full saturated ruby. Inky, brooding aromas of syrupy black fruits and violet. Dense, thick and tactile, with superb depth of flavor and compelling juicy sweetness. Finishes with powerful tannins and superb grip. Not as flamboyantly aromatic as this wine normally is in its youth, but structured for long, slow development in bottle.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Monbousquet is a vintage that I have not tasted for many years. It has a light bouquet with red fruit, bay leaf and Earl Grey tea, nicely defined if missing some vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine line of acidity, cohesive with a straightforward, slightly soft, savory finish. Drink…