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The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Deep, shimmering ruby. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, vanilla, pipe tobacco, exotic spices, cola and potpourri. Deeply concentrated and energetic on the palate, offering smoke-laced black currant, cherry liqueur, spicecake and mocha flavors that display outstanding clarity and pick up a candied violet nuance on the back half. Polished, steadily…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Village, a blend of several parcels from around the appellation, has an attractive, floral bouquet that feels quite airy. The palate is well balanced and the 25% new oak nicely integrated. There is good acidity here, and a fat, generous finish that manages to retain decent tension. Fine.

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2014 Brut Rosé Vintage is a wine of real power and intensity. Finely cut and also deep, the 2014 packs tons of vigor into its mid-weight frame. Dried pear, spice, licorice and red berry fruit begin to emerge with a bit of air, but the 2014 really needs a bit of time in bottle…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2000 Cos d’Estournel, which never quite grabbed me from barrel, is maturing nicely in bottle. As it approaches two decades, it continues to offer an intense, almost ambitious bouquet with blackberry, hints of dark chocolate, tobacco and scorched earth. Both vigor and delineation is present here. The palate is medium-bodied rather than full-bodied these…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

Every now and then, you chance upon a 1982 Mouton-Rothschild that blows you away. This is one such example. It has a wonderful, outgoing, precocious bouquet, with blackberry, cedar and a sprig of wild mint that is so exuberant it enraptures the olfactory senses. The palate is fuller and denser than the ’82 Pichon-Lalande, with…