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1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Bright ruby. Lively aromas of cassis, blackberry, violet and spice. Rich and creamy in the mouth, with spicy dark berry flavors. Finishes with substantial but ripe tannins and excellent length. Plenty of extraction here but gracefully done.

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Dark purple. Potent dark berry preserve, cherry-cola, exotic spice, potpourri and mineral aromas convey impressive energy and acquire smoked bacon and licorice nuances with air. Sappy, deeply concentrated blackberry, bitter cherry, fruitcake and salty olive paste flavors stain the palate and show almost shocking energy for their heft. Closes with superb, floral- and mineral-dominated persistence…

A Vintage with Issues: Burgundy 2021 (Oct 2025)

The 2021 Meursault Les Charmes Dessus 1er Cru has a crisp and well-defined bouquet with much more terroir expression than Fabien Coche’s Meursault Charmes. It is nuanced with hints of popcorn and walnut. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, taut and focused, quite tangy with a twist of bitter lemon towards the finish….

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Red-ruby. Explosive aromas of plum liqueur, currant, minerals and lead pencil. Huge, lush, sweet and utterly seamless; this has the palate-caressing texture of liquid velvet. About as deep as this extreme vintage gets. Finishes with noble, compellingly sweet tannins and great length. This is amazing wine, and only its exotic character prevented me from giving…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Mouton Rothschild is a rich, shockingly flamboyant wine endowed with tremendous fruit density and a level of unctuousness that could be taken for a wine still in barrel. Marvelously open and fleshy, the 2018 is utterly breathtaking today. I imagine it will shut down at some point, but today it is all seduction…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Mouton-Rothschild needed 2–3 hours before I began composing a single word. Eventually it unfolds with the same aromatics that I observed out of barrel: extraordinarily pure blackberry, blueberry, pressed violet petals and potpourri. It still has the alluring Margaux-like florality. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins, disarmingly satin-like texture and wonderful cohesion….