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White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

(I tasted a cuve that got 40% new oak, as the other components of this wine were only two-thirds of the way through their secondary fermentation) Pure aromas of yellow peach, spices and menthol, plus a slightly peppery, herbal quality. Then fat and supple in the mouth, with a strong element of grilled hazelnut. In…

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Medium red. Pungent perfume of blood orange, licorice and herbs, lifted by a floral topnote. Tactile but backward, with terrific lift and perfume to the raspberry and crushed fruit flavors. The terrific rising finish displays great energy and a wonderfully light touch. Really stains the palate. With aeration, a deeper smoky, earthy tang and more…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full ruby-red. Wonderfully perfumed nose combines redcurrant, plum, mocha, minerals and rose petal. Plush, fat and rich, with great sweetness and class. This has utterly compelling mouthfilling richness. Finishes smooth and endless, with great breadth. This wine showed fabulous potential from barrel, but this is the first truly outstanding bottle I’ve had. Drink 2005 through…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1990 Château Margaux has a really fabulous, knock-your-socks-off nose, soaring from the glass with crushed violet, copious black fruit, blueberry and pressed violets. So pure and enticing, this is just magnificent. The palate displays sublime balance and filigree tannins. This is perhaps the freshest example of the 1990 I have encountered to date. Caressing…

2013 Napa Valley: Once Upon a Time in America… (Oct 2015)

The 2013 Scarecrow is magnificent. Rich, opulent and intense, the 2013 is a prototypical modern Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon with tons of ripeness, no hard edges and exceptional polish. A host of ferrous, savory notes abound, but as usual here, Scarecrow is really about the whole package. The 2013 is still recovering from its recent…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Angélus (which, incidentally, was the first vintage where the bottle was embossed with the château name) is one that I have tasted many times, though not recently. Showing minor degradation at its rim, it displays a core with a healthy deep hue. The bouquet is concentrated and intense, plenty of red fruit mingling…