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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(18 hectoliters per hectare produced): Good full, dark red. Brooding aromas of blueberry, cassis and violet. Finer-grained but more backward than the Echézeaux, showing less early sweetness to its dark berry, black cherry and anise flavors. This sharply focused, youthfully tight wine is unusual powerful for this cuvée. Finishes salty and very long, with a…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the crop level in these north-facing vines in Combe d’Orveaux was just 22 hectoliters per hectare): Bright dark red. Pungent, sappy aromas of raspberry and smoky minerality. Dense, sweet and tactile, with its highly concentrated berry flavors enriched by salty mineral extract. Offers terrific inner-mouth tension and lift. Still a baby, but its very long,…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru has more fruit intensity than Jean-Marie Fourrier’s (implying just a slightly later picking, perhaps), offering copious black plum, raspberry, sous-bois and subtle tobacco scents that are beautifully defined. The palate totally delivers: harmonious, succinct, beautifully structured, with perfect acidity that imparts a disarming sense of symmetry, and brilliantly…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright medium red. Captivating high-pitched perfume of raspberry, cranberry and flowers; Then juicy, penetrating and youthfully tight on the palate; plenty ripe and dense, not to mention utterly seamless, but shows rare energy for the vintage, with the tart red berry and crushed-stone qualities of the vineyard lifted by an ineffable floral quality. The slowly…

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair: La Romanée 1865 – 2014 (Mar 2016)

Just bottled a few months ago, the 2013 La Romanée is an absolutely stunning wine with a very bright future. Delicacy and power meld together in a regal Burgundy endowed with statuesque verticality, salivating acidity and tannins that pulse with vitality. A host of violet, plum, licorice and leather overtones grace the exquisite finish. What…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Deep red-ruby. Wonderfully complex if youthfully reticent aromas of black raspberry, graphite minerality, Oriental spices and smoked meat. Rich, broad, dry and classic, showing no easy sweetness in the early going. Ripe berry, mineral and licorice flavors spread out horizontally to saturate the palate. This very young wine boasts outstanding definition and a firmly tannic,…