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Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 1983 Beychevelle may constitute one of the hidden gems of this era. A recent bottle was not quite firing on all cylinders. The best encounter remains a double magnum direct from the château that boasted outgoing black fruit and cigar box mixed with cedar scents. The palate is well-balanced, a fairly “gutsy” Saint-Julien. What…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1986 Latour is a vintage that has constantly left me disappointed in context of the growing season and the performance of its peers such as Mouton-Rothschild or Léoville Las Cases. This last bottle did nothing to change my opinion. It just feels enervated on the nose, as if it cannot be bothered to offer…

Sharing Alike: Petrus 1947 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

The 1983 Petrus is a vintage that I have only encountered on one or two occasions. It has an easygoing nose with leather and game, perhaps a little dustiness that detracts from its definition. It is not fatigued but you could say that the batteries are down to a single bar. The palate is balanced…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Petrus is a vintage I have only encountered a couple of times. This is unquestionably the best I have experienced, blind no less. The bouquet springs from the glass, autumn bonfire scents intertwined with black truffle and leather, more fruit than I remember on the previous bottle. Perhaps the palate just misses a…

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2013 Opus One impresses with its mid-palate density, power and richness. It’s also a drop-dead gorgeous beauty that is starting to drink well now that the bouquet has opened and some of the tannic heft has melted away. There’s still plenty of power and structure, but all the elements are so nicely balanced. All…

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2013 Opus One impresses with its mid-palate density, power and richness. It’s also a drop-dead gorgeous beauty that is starting to drink well now that the bouquet has opened and some of the tannic heft has melted away. There’s still plenty of power and structure, but all the elements are so nicely balanced. All…