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Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2020 Batàr, Querciabella’s Chardonnay/Pinot Blanc white, is laced with hints of tangerine oil, jasmine, spice and pear. Light tropical accents appear later, adding gorgeous nuance throughout. The move towards high elevation vineyards and picking earlier yields a Batàr endowed with terrific freshness and plenty of style.

The 2013 and 2012 Northern Rhône Wines (Feb 2015)

Inky purple. Intense smoke- and mineral-accented aromas of dark berries, cherry liqueur and fresh flowers. Spicy and taut on entry, then fleshier and sweeter in the mid-palate, offering spicy black raspberry and violet pastille flavors and a jolt of tangy acidity on the back half. Puts on weight with air while maintaining striking energy and…

Barbaresco 2010: Treiso Shines (Oct 2013)

Freshly cut flowers, raspberries, mint, anise and licorice all waft from the glass in Gaja’s 2010 Barbaresco. Mid-weight, gracious and utterly impeccable, the 2010 stands out for its balance and harmony. Sweet floral notes reappear on the finish, adding lift and brilliance. All the elements fall into place in this supple, beautifully balanced Barbaresco that…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good bright medium red. Enticing, nuanced nose offers red berries, red cherry and spicy, earthy underbrush. Rich, broad and fine-grained, with lovely inner-mouth perfume and tension. Seemed to shut down in the glass, showing a penetrating juicy quality and finishing with suave tannins and terrific length. A splendid Barbaresco.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good red-ruby. Very ripe aromas of musky currant , black raspberry, camphor and tobacco leaf. Round and plump for St. Estephe, with noteworthy volume and seamless texture; sweeter by far than the chateau’s 2007 or 2006 samples but possesses harmonious framing acidity. Finishes with broad tannins that arrive late. A big success.

Moving On: Lafon-Rochet 1955-2017 (Jun 2023)

The 2005 Lafon-Rochet has a very expressive bouquet with raspberry, blackberry, briary, black pepper and light sous-bois scents. The palate is medium-bodied with tobacco-tinged red and black fruit, beautifully balanced with good substance. This is fresh and saline on the finish. The 2005 is a really superb Lafon-Rochet that will continue to drink well for…