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2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Readers will have to be very patient with the 2015 Angélus. Massively tannic and forbidding, Angélus is one of the most reticent, unyielding 2015s I tasted. The high percentage of Cabernet Franc, the approach to extraction, aging in the cellar – which involves minimal racking and low S02 – and slightly late bottling are some…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Angélus has a ripe and generous bouquet with black cherry, espresso, dark chocolate and peppermint aromas, but it doesn't have the precision of the best Right Bank wines. The palate is very plush and forward, with velvety tannins and hints of chocolate chips infusing the red fruit. It's another 2015 that inches toward…

A Woman’s Touch: Lafleur 1985-2022 (Sep 2025)

The 2018 Lafleur is a great Pomerol, though it would take the bronze medal in a three-way race against the 2019 and 2020. Like many Bordeaux wines from this hot solar vintage, it has a powerful nose with precocious black fruit, black truffle and clove, veins of blueberry emerging with aeration, though it does not…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Lafleur is mesmerizing. What a wine! The aromatics alone are spellbinding. There is no need to actually taste the 2018 to know how profound it is. Silky and caressing, with phenomenal persistence, the 2018 is a total knock-out. Spice, cedar, blood orange, sage, mint, rose petal and kirsch all race out of the…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

(white label) Good medium red. Reticent, more reduced nose hints at game and minerals. Then fatter, sweeter and creamier in the mouth than the Santo Stefano; a step up in texture and richness. The limestone element brings energy and minerality, which extends the wine’s rather fine-grained finish.

Bruno Giacosa Dinner at Legacy Records (Aug 2023)

The 2004 Barbaresco Rabajà is powerful and expansive in the glass. Dark cherry, plum, gravel, spice and leather infuse the 2004 with tons of character. There’s real breadth to the 2004, along with a good bit of elegance to play off its natural virile intensity. What a wine.