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This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis Mont Luisants 1er Cru Blanc has a very impressive, mineral-driven bouquet with assiduous reduction that lends edginess without impeding upon terroir expression. The palate is very well balanced with great depth and the volume I often look for in a Mont Luisants, almost creamy in texture on the very “gras” finish. Excellent….

Cellar Favorite: 1985 Cheval Blanc (Sep 2024)

It has been several years since I last tasted the 1985 Cheval Blanc. When this was poured, a guest enquired whether I liked it, to which I replied: “It’s Cheval Blanc…It’s 1985…Of course!” Now, approaching four decades old, I suspect the 1985 will not improve further, except in a larger format. This bottle shows minor…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2001 Gruaud Larose is clearly fresher and cleaner on the nose than the preceding vintage, with blackberry, dark chocolate and light loamy scents. With aeration, there is just a touch of wild mint. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a little square-jawed for a Gruaud, maybe just missing a little depth and concentration…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

I have not tasted the 1985 Dom Pérignon in a very long time. It is in a perfect place. Lucid amber/gold in colour, it has an effervescent nose with orange pith, gingerbread and even a touch of white-tipped strawberry, becoming nuttier as it opens in the glass with fine delineation. The palate is smooth and…

Chianti Classico: The Magnificent 2021s (Jul 2024)

The 2021 Tignanello is every bit as impressive from bottle as it was from barrel and then just after bottling. Silky and polished, with exceptional finesse, the 2021 has all the pedigree to become a modern benchmark for Tignanello and Italian wine more broadly. Bright dark red fruit, blood orange, spice, cedar and sweet pipe…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 2000 Trotanoy has a deeper hue than the 1996 and 1997 served alongside, as you would expect. This has an intense nose, with menthol-tinged black fruit, good definition and a touch of hung game that ebbs away to reveal more melted tar aromas. There is a little more VA than I would like. The…