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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Ruby-red. Roasted blackberry, coffee and mocha on the nose, along with a grapey quality. Fat, superripe and sweet; wonderfully full, sexy and broad. Just this side of exotic, but sound natural acidity gives shape to the thick, mellow dark berry and chocolate flavors. Finishes with substantial tannins and resounding length. This will be drinkable several…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Pontet Canet has a precocious bouquet with blueberry, cassis, crushed violet and pastille-like fruit, perhaps more delineation than its peers. There’s a nice focus here. The palate is well balanced with finely-knit tannins, a sorbet-like freshness, lightly spiced with hints of bacon fat emanating from that notorious warm summer. With a brightness on…

Roederer Cristal Rosé: A Journey Through Time 1976-2007 (May 2015)

The 1995 Cristal Rosé (Late Disgorged) is an excellent choice for drinking now, as it has pretty much reached the point where further improvement in the cellar is unlikely. At the same time, the 1995 shows no signs of fading; rather it gives the impression it will stay at this plateau for at least a…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Very pale rose-gold color. Singular nose hints at wild strawberry, raspberry and toast, along with exotic hints of mango and pineapple. Very dry and elegant, but with extraordinary intensity of flavor and incipient creaminess. An extremely young wine with the material and structure to develop for another 15 years or more. A great rose.

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou can be a stupendous wine…or it can leave you scratching your head. On the nose, this bottle shows a little more brettanomyces than others that I have tasted, though it dissipates with aeration to reveal blackberry, mint and light herbal notes. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, a little chewy…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full ruby-red. Slightly musty aromas of currant and cigar box. Fat and full, but with an intrusive dry edge suppressing the wine fruit and verve and repeating on the finish. I’ve had a couple of better bottles of this wine, but it apparent that the cellar pollution problems that plagued this chateau between 1985 and…