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Focus on Spain (Sep 2014)

(90% tempranillo and 10% graciano): Bright red. Heady aromas of dried red berries, cherry, smoked meat, vanilla and potpourri, with a spicy element gaining strength with air. Fleshy and seamless in texture, offering sappy red fruit and floral pastille flavors and an undertone of sweet vanilla. The spiciness comes back on the finish, which features…

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Vivid ruby. Expansive red and blue fruit preserve, tobacco, potpourri, spice and botanical herb aromas, with vanilla and smoky mineral notes emerging as the wine opens up. Sappy, penetrating and gently chewy on the palate, offering vibrant, mineral- and spice-accented black raspberry, bitter cherry and rose pastille flavors that deepen and turn sweeter on the…

New Zealand: Just For Starters (Nov 2018)

The 2016 Akitu A1, from the sub-region of Cromwell, offers simple tertiary red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, displaying grainy tannin and dark berry fruit laced with brown spices and cola, and the gentle, soft finish is classically inspired.

Multifarious 2017 Mosels, Part 1: Winningen to Wehlen (Jan 2020)

Ripe pear, apple and honeydew melon are headily garlanded in honeysuckle, lily-of-the-valley and mint. The palate impression is lusciously fruity and subtly creamy, presenting an airy combination of alcoholic levity with floral perfume. The buoyant, bell-clear, seductively lingering finish is soothing, but features a welcome light tingle of fresh, zesty lemon. (There is also an…

Multifarious 2017 Mosels, Part 1: Winningen to Wehlen (Jan 2020)

Dusty and yeasty notes do not interfere significantly with a transmission of fresh but ultra-concentrated pear and quince, laced with heliotrope and honeysuckle. A welcome influx of grapefruit serves for brightness and zest on an otherwise creamy as well as delicate palate, leading to a finish impeccably balanced in sweetness and vibrantly as well as…

New Zealand: Just For Starters (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Coleraine is clearly a vintage that requires an hour’s decanting. Initially, the bouquet is overtly fruit-driven, offering raspberry and crushed strawberry scents, but missing Coleraine’s usual complexity. That emerges after aeration, the fruity aromas receding and becoming blacker, and cedar and cigar humidor aromas developing. The palate is medium-bodied and certainly reflective of…