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2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)

Opaque dark ruby. Incredibly rich, deep and pungent on the nose, offering an outsized bouquet of kirsch, blackberry, cassis and musky cured tobacco. I commented that this smelled like a great port and Guigal, who clearly adores this wine, said Well, 1945 Taylor is a wine I’d walk miles for. Powerful, deeply concentrated and sweet,…

2003 and 2002 Northern Rhone Wines (Jan 2005)

Bright, full, saturated ruby. Explosive aromas of black raspberry, blackberry and licorice, with a suggestion of medicinal austerity. Then raw and primary but incredibly thick, with a richness verging on port-like. Almost too big for the mouth. Actually more of a fruit bomb on the nose today and altogether more serious on the palate. If…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Pavie was the infamous vintage that caused a kerfuffle upon release, a kerfuffle that will not retread. It now shows a little bricking on the rim with a dark core. The bouquet with cherry liqueur, honey, potpourri and licorice is not unattractive. Yes, perhaps a bit Italian in style. The palate is medium-bodied…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Impressive full medium ruby color. Quite locked up on the nose following the February bottling; hinted at currant, smoked meat and roasted nuts as it opened in the glass. Extremely powerful but a bit chunky today, conveying an impression of extraordinary solidity. One senses but does not taste the minerals and primary berry fruit. But…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Saturated ruby-red color. Knockout nose combines perfumed red berries, licorice, tar and chalky minerality, along with some exotic roasted notes. Sweet, fat and thick, with slightly roasted flavors of black raspberry and game. A large-scaled, impressively lush wine that comes off as distinctly more vibrant than the 2001 Pavie-Decesse. From the outset this wine has…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Pavie has a vibrant bouquet of lifted blackberry, raspberry and rose petal scents, joined by touches of cedar and mint from the Cabernets. The palate is well balanced with fine tension, structured but not overbearing. This is less dense than the 2000, with better-integrated wood and a lovely rondeur toward the finish. It…