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Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru has the most intense and opaque bouquet of the quintet from this vineyard and easily the most modern in style, presenting a mixture of well-defined dark cherry, blueberry and violet aromas. The palate is chewy and concentrated on the entry and very dense, with much more new oak…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(roughly 25 hectoliters per hectare produced in 2015; Esmonin told me she uses 100% new oak for this cuvée in principle): Bright ruby-red. Tight, pure aromas of black fruits, licorice and minerals complemented by subtle oak spices. Dense, sweet and fine-grained, conveying an impression of strong energy and extract to its slightly inky black fruit…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru, matured in 70% new oak. It has a very detailed, focused and yet unapologetically tightly wound bouquet that demands some encouragement in the glass, as if punishing you for infanticide (hey, I’m just doing my job.) Over the course of a few minutes those crushed granite, almost flinty…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(65% vendange entier): Dark red with ruby tones; not quite as deeply colored as the Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes. Very dark aromas of black raspberry, bitter chocolate and licorice, plus a hint of leathery reduction. At once densely packed and penetrating; a distinctly sappy, very dark style of Clos Saint-Jacques with considerable finesse and length. But…

Reds From Toro: Old Vines and New Knowhow (Dec 2023)

The 2015 Numanthia, sourced from old vines in Toro, was aged in French oak barrels. This deep garnet red with a brick sheen offers nuanced balsamic aromas intermingled with black olives, dried plums and dried flowers, showcasing a bouquet in progress. Rich and taut due to its firm tannins, the mellow and juicy palate empowers…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Inky, glistening ruby. Potent, highly perfumed aromas of black raspberry, cherry cola, vanilla, fresh flowers and allspice carry a smoky overtone. Juicy, penetrating red and dark berry, cherry liqueur, spicecake and violet pastille flavors show superb energy, and an undercurrent of juicy acidity provides support. Gently chewy tannins frame an impressively long, sappy finish that…