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Vinous Table: Cornus, London, UK (Oct 2024)

The 2004 Château Margaux is a vintage that I tasted earlier this year at the château, although here it is a rare chance to savor the wine from neck to punt. What a joy. It is certainly open for business on the nose, leaning towards red rather than black fruit, violet and peony, cedar and…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Bright red-ruby. Knockout nose features boysenberry, currant, cedar, graphite and mocha. Suave, gentle and sweet, already displaying ineffable inner-mouth perfume. The 17% merlot component injects a silky component, and the oak element adds a complementary sweetness. Complex, lush, horizontal finish saturates the mouth with flavor. It was not clear to me in April that the…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2004 Chateau Margaux is one of the dark horses of the decade. This bottle, which came directly from the château cellars, accidentally landing in my hands (long story), reconfirms the caliber. The bouquet takes a little time to find its feet, eventually offering richly layered scents with raspberry, blackberry, crushed rock and pencil shavings….

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Château Margaux has an enticing nose with mainly red fruit and a light cedar and irony tincture. It’s mature but still vigorous and has plenty in the tank. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, tensile entry. It’s irony (again) with a welcome spiciness on the finish. More concentrated than you…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Bright yellow. Very ripe yellow peach, spices and a note of grilled-nut reduction on the nose and palate. Round, utterly silky and rich; an explosive, mouthfilling wine with terrific framing acidity. Finishes tactile and classic, with outstanding resounding length and a powerful impression of extract. An amazing showing considering that this wine was on its…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2005 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a terrific bouquet, very steely and tense. Previous bottles have tasted richer but this is almost Zen-like! The palate is fresh, taut and linear. It comes armed with a huge amount of concentration, but on this showing it would benefit from another five years in bottle! Be patient. Tasted…