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Bruno Giacosa Dinner at Legacy Records (Aug 2023)

The 2004 Barbaresco Rabajà is powerful and expansive in the glass. Dark cherry, plum, gravel, spice and leather infuse the 2004 with tons of character. There’s real breadth to the 2004, along with a good bit of elegance to play off its natural virile intensity. What a wine.

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru carries a hefty reduction on the nose that currently suppresses the fruit. It’s difficult to see the terroir at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, quite elegant in style, and pure red fruit with a touch of piquancy on the finish. Note that I decanted…

Juxtapose With You: Pétrus, Lafleur & Le Pin (Feb 2018)

Tasted at the Pomerol Comparative Exploration tasting in London, the 1990 Le Pin has a mature bouquet with singed leather, clove, smudged black fruit and mint, turning a little feral and animally in the glass. It does not have the sophistication of the 1989 Le Pin tasted alongside and felt unruly in comparison. That theme…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Moderately saturated deep ruby. Exotic aromas of game, toast, black fruits and herbs. Very ripe and sweet but not currently displaying the layered texture or sheer opulence for which this tiny Pomerol has gained a cult reputation. In fact, this is quite structured for Le Pin, with a firm tannic underpinning—in style reminiscent of the…

Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 2000 Giscours is consistent with the bottle that I tasted in 2021—still those red plum and cedar scents, and a hint of black olive compote, decently delineated. Nicely balanced, the palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. It’s lightly spiced with a touch of balsamic towards the finish. This is not a bad millennial, but…

The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)

It’s fascinating to taste the 2010 Romanée-Conti. It is as if all of the preceding wines are subsets of the Romanée-Conti, but in the Romanée-Conti we find all of the qualities that make the other wines so distinctive in one marvelously complete Burgundy. Aromatics reminiscent of Romanée St. Vivant make an appearance, followed by the…