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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Very deep ruby. Flamboyant nose loaded with superripe red fruits, almond flower and spicy clove. Enters smooth but dense, offering rich, ripe flavors of red cherry, black plum, minerals and white pepper. Sweet, well-balanced and attractive, this serious, very long wine finishes with an enticing hint of marzipan.

An Education: La Dominique 1989-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 2009 La Dominique is missing freshness and a sense of energy on the nose, just like the previous two vintages. Strangely, I would never guess this as a 2009 just by the lack of exuberance and joie-de-vivre. The palate is medium-bodied and thankfully shows better than the aromatics. There is good weight in the…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright medium ruby. Smoky, sexy aromas of roasted blackberry, kirsch and toffee; I might have picked this blind as a Pomerol. Rich, concentrated, dense and sweet but not heavy, with chewy flavors of black raspberry, blackberry and roast coffee. The broad finish features sweet, building tannins and excellent length. There’s an almost exotic quality to…

Bending Rules: Les Carmes Haut-Brion 1955-2019 (Oct 2022)

The 2012 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was the first vintage with whole bunches (40%) and 18 months in barrel. It was the introductory vintage under current winemaker Guillaume Pouthier. This is much more enticing on the nose after the 2011: well-defined black cherries, cola, peppermint, light rose petal scents and a hint of marmalade that emerges…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

A powerful, intense wine, the 2012 Les Carmes Haut-Brion exudes richness and depth. Game, smoke, tobacco, grilled herbs, black cherries and incense are some of the signatures. This explosive, powerful Pessac is going to need time to settle down, but it is exceptionally beautiful, even at this very early stage. Les Carmes Haut-Brion is marked…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(44% merlot, 38% cabernet franc and 18% cabernet sauvignon; 14% alcohol; 53% selection for the grand vin): Saturated ruby with purple highlights. Dark plum, blackberry, ink and minerals on the knockout nose. Silky and deep for 2012, but with no shortage of underlying structure. Quite full and complex, with sneaky concentration and building sweetness to…