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1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Deep red-ruby. Fresh, fruit-driven aromas of raspberry, cassis, black cherry and spice. Sweet and pristine on the palate, with strong fruit buttressed by powerful acids. Not fat or fleshy, but young, firm and quite long.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Mâcon Pierreclos "Lieu Secret" comes from a parcel called La Chavigne and apparently, after much persuasion, includes fruit from the neighbors’ vines. It is vinified in 25% new oak with eight months of lees-stirring. The rounded, generous, tropical-tinged bouquet features pineapple, melon and satsuma aromas; the oak is very discreet here. The palate…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Vieux Chateau Certan is a vintage that I have not tasted often, something I rue even more having been reacquainted with it. To be honest, for the first five minutes it felt overawed by the 1989. However, it soon gets its act together to deliver and gorgeous nose of black fruit, melted tar…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Excellent red-ruby color. Riper floral and cassis aromas are at once seductive and precise. Sweeter, riper and more textured in the mouth, with a lovely tangy violet-and-spice quality carrying through to the very long finish. Here the tannins are a bit sweeter than those of the Chambolle.

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Black raspberry, currant, minerals, herbs and iron on the nose. Stuffed with fruit and minerals yet a bit forbidding today. Boasts very good volume and inner-mouth complexity. Powerful but stylish. Finishes very long, with big, ripe tannins. The best yet.

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Excellent ruby-red. Vibrant, sweet, almost liqueur-like aromas of framboise, dark berries and violet. Quite dense in the mouth, and seriously structured. Notes of cherry syrup and tar. Longer but tougher on the back end than the ’97; the tannins here give a sensation of extra power.