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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(40 h/h; 12.5% alcohol): Bright red. Very pure floral nose with enticing aromas of redcurrant, violet, minerals, licorice, lead pencil and coffee: very cabernet franc! Then linear, pure and juicy, with pristine flavors of red berries, dark plum, minerals and coffee. This midweight finishes clean and smoothly tannic, offering amazing balance and an impression of…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Léoville Las-Cases is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot (this bottled had been re-corked at the property in 2014). This was a late harvest that began on 4 October and lasted for 12 days. This seems to have matured on the nose since I…

The Marital Margaux: d’Issan 1945-2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1985 d’Issan has a slightly deeper appearance compared to the 1983 and the bouquet has lasted far better: gravel-tinged red berry fruit, sage, dried blood and hints of cured meat. I would not describe it as animally though, it is galloping in that direction, possibly indicating some presence of brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied…

Focus on California (May 2000)

Saturated ruby-red. Multidimensional nose offers a panoply of scents: black plum, currant, leather, smoked meat, cigar ash, lead pencil, sandalwood, dark chocolate, licorice, brown sugar. Very bright and sharply defined; flavors of plum, leather, hot stones and lead pencil. An impeccably balanced wine of compelling sweetness, but rather dominated today by its structure. Strong, thoroughly…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1963 Croft Vintage Port comes from a pivotal vintage in the Douro. The nose is well defined and quite feminine with an exotic element in the background that never comes to the fore. The palate displays good concentration and balance but is let down in terms of complexity and length, a Croft “playing it…

The Best of Rioja and Ribera del Duero (Nov 1999)

Deep, bright ruby. Extraordinarily complex, lively nose combines black raspberry, bitter chocolate, nutmeg and an intriguing suggestion of roasted herbs. Amazingly rich and smooth in the mouth; truly explosive fruit offers superb vinosity and snap. Like liquid velvet but with great clarity of flavor. Builds in intensity and seems to grow thicker on the back…