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Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Green-edged straw color. Sweet butter, marzipan and a bright, riesling-like note of petrol on the nose. Fresh, firm and sharply delineated; the least rich and the driest of these three vintages, in the style of the year. But quite concentrated. Intriguing note of white raisin. Finishes very long and firm, with a slight sensation of…

Cellar Favorite: 1986 Penfolds Shiraz Kalimna Bin 28 (Mar 2023)

The 1986 Shiraz Kalimna Bin 28 is still youthful in color. The bouquet is precisely what you would expect from a Barossa Shiraz, though, Penfolds was sourcing from different regions by this time. Black plums, camphor and dark chocolate scents don’t hold back; they’re still quite precocious and primal with appealing purity. The palate is…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Talbot is much more backward on the nose compared to its peers, eventually revealing blackberry, briary and light floral scents, pretty but clearly requiring more bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, quite firm tannins. Cedar and graphite lend this a slight Pauillac-like personality, linear and correct with modest depth on the…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good dark red. Aromas of black raspberry, tobacco, mocha and smoke. Rich, plush and full in the mouth, but with edgy acidity and a peppery note contributing definition to the raspberry and mineral flavors. Not hugely concentrated but juicy, fine-grained and firmly structured wine with excellent balance. A worthy successor to the very good 2009…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(63% cabernet sauvignon, 32% merlot and 5% petit verdot) Bright, deep ruby. Fruity, grapey aromas of strawberry, blood orange, tobacco and cedar. Then more blood orange and strawberry jam on the smooth palate, complicated by hints of lavender and musk. Finishes with good but not outstanding length. This Talbot is in an uncomplicated, easygoing style,…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Champ-Gain 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet of freshly sliced pear, Granny Smith apples and light limestone aromas. The palate is well balanced with tropical notes on the entry, quite harmonious and focused even if it just needs a little more mineralité on the apricot-tinged finish. Fine.