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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

Winemaker Philippe Dhalluin told me that when the 1989 d’Armailhac was tasted en primeur, tasters would have met it under its old name, Mouton Baronne Philippe. Come bottling time, it was rebranded as d’Armailhac. It has a fresh but herbal nose displaying a struck match note that is rather off-putting. The palate is harsh on…

Cellar Favorite: 1928-2011 Lascombes (Oct 2022)

The 1961 Lascombes is a very fine example of this auspicious vintage. Deep in colour, it has a beguiling bouquet with blackberry, pine and hints of menthol. Pressed iris flowers emerge with time whilst retaining wonderful focus. After 20 minutes, I notice a distant tang of kelp. The palate is medium-bodied with a saline entry,…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Excellent ruby-red. Precise, floral aromas of black cherry, animal fur, smoke and violet. Bright, very intensely flavored and closed in on itself today, with strong but harmonious acidity. Very primary dark berry flavors are complicated by a gamey nuance. Strong, firm tannins avoid hardness. Unevolved and in need of five or six years of aging….

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Excellent ruby-red. Precise, floral aromas of black cherry, animal fur, smoke and violet. Bright, very intensely flavored and closed in on itself today, with strong but harmonious acidity. Very primary dark berry flavors are complicated by a gamey nuance. Strong, firm tannins avoid hardness. Unevolved and in need of five or six years of aging….

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

Saturated deep red. Musky, gamey nose comes across as less pure than the ’87. Concentrated and fresh, with moderate complexity and sound acidity. A La Mouline of merely mortal scale, finishing slightly herbal but with very good fruit.

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

Saturated deep red. Musky, gamey nose comes across as less pure than the ’87. Concentrated and fresh, with moderate complexity and sound acidity. A La Mouline of merely mortal scale, finishing slightly herbal but with very good fruit.