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Dauvissat Chablis Les Clos: 1983-2015 (Nov 2019)

Palish straw-yellow color; less bright than some vintages in this tasting. (I’ve seen published tasting notes on this wine dating back as far as a decade that described it as distinctly golden in color, but not this bottle!) Rather wild aromas of hawthorn, acacia flower, chalk and cedar, plus a hint of truffle; not about…

Dauvissat Chablis Les Clos: 1983-2015 (Nov 2019)

Palish straw-yellow color; less bright than some vintages in this tasting. (I’ve seen published tasting notes on this wine dating back as far as a decade that described it as distinctly golden in color, but not this bottle!) Rather wild aromas of hawthorn, acacia flower, chalk and cedar, plus a hint of truffle; not about…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good deep red. Musky, highly aromatic nose hints at red berries, minerals, flowers and spices. Densely packed but juicy, tight and imploded today, with its fruit flavors currently dominated by structure. This, too, boasts terrific sappy energy and elegance, not to mention length, but may well require a decade of patience. Very impressive.

1996 and 1995 Red Burgundies (Mar 1998)

Finer, brighter, more floral aroma dominated by raspberry. At once rounder and brighter in the mouth, showing stronger acidity and more thrust. The tannins are more evenly distributed, and there’s also more buffering middle-palate material. Still holding plenty in reserve.

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Good cherry-red. Fresh cherry and licorice nose. Bright and firm, with fresh acidity and good backbone. On the lean side but penetrating. The tannins coat the palate.

1998 and 1997 Red Burgundies (Mar 2000)

Healthy dark red. Complex, somewhat exotic aromas of raspberry, cherry, espresso, licorice and herbs. Fat, dense and pliant if a bit closed today. This has strong material, an old-viney creamy sweetness, and an almost medicinal austerity that augurs well for its evolution in bottle. Finishes with supple tannins and very good length. Doesn’t possess quite…