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Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

Taittinger’s 2007 Comtes de Champagne will be nearly impossible to resist upon release. Soaring aromatics, mid-weight structure and soft contours give the 2007 its alluring personality. Lemon oil, white flowers, mint, chamomile and green pear add brightness and freshness throughout, with a persistent, clean finish that makes it impossible to resist a second taste. Today,…

Chianti Classico 2015 & 2016: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2019)

The 2015 Chianti Classico Riserva Marchese Antinori is outrageously beautiful. All the signatures of the year flesh out effortlessly. Crushed flowers, sweet red berries, mint and sweet spice infuse a superb, beautifully layered Chianti Classico loaded with personality and character. The expression of fruit is striking, while the style Antinori favors today that seeks freshness…

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 2016 Palmer is a brilliant wine from Thomas Duroux, though I feel it will ultimately be surpassed by the 2018. You cannot argue with the nose: intense black cherries and raspberry fruit, crushed violets and crème de cassis (as if there was a touch of Pauillac in there). The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy,…

Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 1989 Vieux Château Certan has long been one of my favourite vintages of this era, although this is not the best example. The nose has more intensity than the 1990 with plenty of red fruit, melted tar, Earl Grey and light rose petal scents wafting from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with firm…

New Releases from Spain (Sep 2013)

(80% tempranillo, with garnacha, mazuelo and graciano; aged in large oak vats for 16 months, followed by another 36 months in small oak barrels and then another 3 years in bottle before release): Deep ruby. Heady, mineral-tinged red fruit and rose scents are complemented by star anise, vanilla and woodsmoke. Supple, seamless and concentrated, offering…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 1993 La Conseillante is a wine that I have tasted twice. The last note for the Pomerol book attests to a Pomerol now rather long in the tooth, a smoke and truffle–tinged nose that is missing vigour. The palate feels rather austere with that tobacco theme continuing on its obstreperous austere finish. Bottles should…