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Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 2007 Vieux Château Certan is a great success for this challenging growing season. It has an attractive bouquet with scents of melted asphalt and mint infusing the black fruit (less of the rooibos this time!). The palate is medium-bodied and sappy in style, not terribly complex but very well balanced. It just seems to…

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Bright ruby-red. Smoke, minerals, spices, tobacco leaf and a whiff of green olive on the nose; almost exotic but not in a classical Pomerol way. The exotic quality carries through in the mouth, which is firm and rather uncompromising today. A structured style of VCC but showing limited flesh today.

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

Tasted several times, the 1986 Yquem is a sublime expression of the vintage. It was the opposite of the previous year as it saw widespread botrytis after 40mm of rain in late October followed by a sunny November. It comes armed with an effervescent bouquet with pure honey, almond, quince and saffron, that patisserie scent…

Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 2002 Vieux Château Certan is a vintage that I have never fallen in love with. Having tasted it regularly since primeur, it has a decidedly broody bouquet that is only just satisfactory. The palate is typical of the 2002s, balanced but not particularly engaging, clean but almost anonymous on the finish. Tasted at The…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

(70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon) Good full red. Expressive aromas of mocha, game, tobacco and smoke. Moderately sweet and dense, with a supple texture for the year. And yet the wine’s underlying minerality gives it a firmness and contributes to the impression of vinosity. Finishes with excellent length and no dryness….

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Pale gold. Knockout aromas of creme brulee, coconut, vanilla bean, honey and orange peel. Lush and seductively silky in the mouth; its creamy, seamless texture makes it seem deceptively accessible today but sound acid structure should keep it going for 20 years or more. Not hugely sweet or tropical but very complex and fine. Firm,…