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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Healthy red-ruby. Red fruit, espresso, iron, tobacco, brown spices and exotic oak scents on the nose. Round and silky in the mouth, but supported by solid structure. Already shows lovely perfume in the mouth. Compared to the softer ’97, this has more penetration and grip. Finishes spicy, firm and quite long.

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1988 Petrus is a vintage that I have encountered in two occasions. It is a forerunner for the 1989 and 1990 and frankly, it cannot hold a torch to those twin titans. In retrospect, one can see it more as a small progression from the capable 1987. It has a youthful hue with less…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1990 Petrus is a great Pomerol, albeit one that has levelled off in terms of quality during its evolution, so that there is now a clear gap between itself and the 1989. This bottle has that same gorgeous raspberry and mulberry nose, sensual and warm, the eucalyptus component a little more noticeable vis-a-vis previous…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Black-ruby to the rim. Remarkably vibrant red and black fruit, mineral, and licorice nose has an almost Chambolle-like framboise tang to it. Massive on the palate; tremendous extract. As dense as this is now, it already shows remarkable clarity and depth of flavor. Powerful structure and length, with extraordinary subtlety of flavor. Based on the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 La Mission Haut-Brion is a vintage that I have not encountered for ten years. Now at 30 years old it has a charming bouquet with scents of tobacco and cigar box infusing the black fruit, just as it did a decade ago. It is not powerful but undeniably very refined. The palate is…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Medium ruby. Spicy aromas of cassis and bitter chocolate. Rather rigid and uncompromising today but there’s good density here and firm underlying structure. The bones are showing now but this firmly tannic wine shows very good persistence. This should benefit substantially from its elevage.