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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1966 Ducru-Beaucaillou has a mushroom, briny nose that is too herbal for my liking, lacking the panache of say, the 1966 Latour or 1966 Château Margaux (the latter tasted by chance just a couple of days before this.) The palate is medium-bodied with solid tannins, a little foursquare, serious and lacking a bit of…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Exotic aromas of truffle, game, dried fruits and tobacco; strong impression of botrytis. Powerful on entry, then very sweet (74 grams/liter r.s.) and very concentrated, with an amazingly glyceral texture. Powerful and very deep. Still some sulfur to be absorbed. One of the richest wines of this group, really thick with extract. Finishes firm, youthful…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good deep red. Red fruits, dried rose, graphite and spicy oak on the nose. Wonderfully fine-grained, seamless and sweet, combining outstanding fullness with an uncanny weightlessness. Extremely fine-grained and subtle, with some apparent oak spice in the middle palate. Best today on the explosive, broad aftertaste, which saturates the palate with perfume and leaves the…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva seduces the senses as it mixes savory and sweet, the dusty rose and crushed stone aromas giving way to wild strawberry and dried cherry. A velvety textural wave saturates the palate with salty minerals and tart raspberry fruits, lifted by stunning acidity and cooling herbal tones that create a…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Canon La Gaffelière is bright, punchy and full of character, just as it was from barrel. Sage, blood orange, mocha and spice add pretty aromatic top notes to a core of inky red/purplish berry fruit. All the elements are so well balanced in this super-expressive Saint-Émilion. Bright floral and savory Franc notes punctuate…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Canon-la-Gaffelière has an irresistible bouquet of blackberry, raspberry and touches of lavender that blossoms as soon as it opens, though it reaches its zenith only after 4–5 hours. The palate is medium-bodied with red and black fruit, a little grainier in texture than it showed from barrel, yet still spicy toward the finish….