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Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2004 Chateau Margaux is one of the dark horses of the decade. This bottle, which came directly from the château cellars, accidentally landing in my hands (long story), reconfirms the caliber. The bouquet takes a little time to find its feet, eventually offering richly layered scents with raspberry, blackberry, crushed rock and pencil shavings….

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Château Margaux has an enticing nose with mainly red fruit and a light cedar and irony tincture. It’s mature but still vigorous and has plenty in the tank. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh, tensile entry. It’s irony (again) with a welcome spiciness on the finish. More concentrated than you…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Bright yellow. Very ripe yellow peach, spices and a note of grilled-nut reduction on the nose and palate. Round, utterly silky and rich; an explosive, mouthfilling wine with terrific framing acidity. Finishes tactile and classic, with outstanding resounding length and a powerful impression of extract. An amazing showing considering that this wine was on its…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2005 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a terrific bouquet, very steely and tense. Previous bottles have tasted richer but this is almost Zen-like! The palate is fresh, taut and linear. It comes armed with a huge amount of concentration, but on this showing it would benefit from another five years in bottle! Be patient. Tasted…

2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Explosive aromas of ripe stone fruits, flowers and honey. Fatter, thicker and sweeter than the more elegant Bienvenues but less precise today. A classic round, rich, full and highly concentrated 2005 with strong extract and plenty of alcohol. This big boy will need a solid decade of cellaring to burn off some of its baby…

The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

Honey, almonds, white flowers and nectarines all take shape in Jadot’s 2011 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles. Exotic white truffle, orange peel and spice notes appear later, adding dimensions of complexity and nuance to this pedigreed Burgundy. The flavors continue to blossom in all directions as the wine opens up in the glass. Simply put, the 2011…