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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Rieussec has a lifted patisserie, almond-scented bouquet, touches of wild peach coming through with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a very unctuous entry, powerful and intense, almost heady in style with a persistent finish that coats the mouth. What a fabulous Sauternes. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On tasting.

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

A classic from the first tilt of the glass, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino wows the senses with a pleasantly old-school bouquet of leather, earth tones, dried flowers, crushed cherries, sage and clove. This mixes radiant dark red fruits with sweet spices and salty mineral tones to create a display of contrasts, all over a…

2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Radiance Personified (Nov 2020)

I’m not sure how Il Poggione manages to remain one of the largest producers of Brunello, maintaining such a high level of quality and turning out some of the best wines of the vintage year after year – but they do. The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is yet another stunning example. Depths of mineral-encased black…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Good deep red-ruby. Delicate, precise aromas of black cherry, currant, violet, cool menthol, licorice, herbs and iron. Spicy and energetic, with a distinctly sappy purity to the dark fruit and mineral flavors. In a very linear style today and still tightly wound. Broadens out nicely on the back end, which features noble, fine-grained tannins and…

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Cherry, menthol and saline, smoky minerality on the nose and palate, with the wine’s oak element currently blocking its aromatic purity. Then spicy, dry and quite closed in the mid-palate, but with a penetrating, sappy quality to the rather glyceral flavors. Dense but backward wine, finishing with serious dusty tannins. Showed a purer cherry character…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1995 Yquem is deep gold in colour. According to the estate, potential alcohol levels shot up from 16° at the beginning of harvest to 30° within two weeks. The bouquet bursts from the glass, as before, quite Barsac-like in style with white peach, tangerine, acacia and saffron, a touch of candle wax with time….