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Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

The 2009 Mouton Rothschild is exceptionally beautiful. A huge, powerful wine, the 2009 possesses stunning richness and radiance, with plenty of underlying structure to support all of that exuberance. Smoke, grilled herbs, tobacco and incense give the 2009 much of its exotic, captivating personality. Seamless, opulent, yet with terrific freshness, the 2009 is sure to…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Red-ruby. Ripe aromas of plum, currant, lead pencil and milk chocolate. Sweet but penetrating and gripping, with lovely clarity of flavor and terrific thrust. Classic claret, with lovely fruit and a very long, ripely tannic finish. A compelling example from this very elegantly styled vintage. Drink now through 2015.

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

(40% new oak; there was a bit of hail here, noted Raphael Coche, and the grapes were very ripe and tiny): Expressive aromas of white plum, hazelnut and nutty oak. Boasts an uncanny velvety texture over a powerful backbone of acidity and tannins, with the nutty oak and mineral flavors conveying outstanding energy. A great,…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Meursault Charmes 1er Cru has a lifted nose, although for me there is a bit too much oak that occludes the fruit profile at the moment. Leaving the glass aside for five minutes, a light wet clay scent develops. The palate is based around what clearly must be a low pH, full of…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Light, bright gold with a steady bead. Orange, ripe pear, red berries and white flowers on the nose, with complementary notes of lemon, honey, sweet butter and smoky minerals. Ripe citrus and orchard fruit flavors are braced by gentle minerality, picking up subtle baking spice and buttered toast notes with air. Surprisingly generous at this…

Vinous Table: Marea, New York, NY (Jul 2022)

Roederer’s 2002 Cristal, from magnum, is just off the charts. What else is there to say? The magnum format is so well-suited to Champagne. As opposed to still wines, which are just aged in glass, for Champagne, the secondary fermentation takes place in the glass. I am convinced that is a major part of what…