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Tuscany New Releases: Maremma, Montepulciano & More (Apr 2018)

The 2014 Sassicaia is polished and expressive for the year. But it is also quite a bit darker and more concentrated than when it was a young wine. That search for a level of depth in aging that the vintage did not provide on its own also concentrated the tannins, which are a bit out…

The Pros and Cons of Rosso di Montalcino and Beyond (Jan 2022)

The 2018 Rosso di Montalcino is so delicate and floral, with hints of wet stone giving way to freshly sliced plum and sage. Here I’m finding a refreshing wave of herbal-tinged red berries and minerals, gaining a hint of exotic inner florals toward the close. At times, the 2018 feels almost weightless, reminding me more…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Medium lemon-yellow color. Aromas of white peach, lemon, licorice, lichee and crushed stone. Chewy and sharply chiseled, nicely combining white peach fruit with saline minerality. This parcel is situated close to Meursault but this 2014 is classic Puligny in its very dry, sharply chiseled character. Really shows the salty side of 2014. Lydie notes that…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Bright light yellow. Ripe peach and lime aromas are complicated by clove and menthol. Broad and dry in the mouth; less fruity today than the Champ-Canet but this wine shows more force and structure. A touch of finishing austerity suggests that this 2014 will need patience.

Spain’s New Releases, Part 2: Triumphs and Travails (May 2017)

(aged for a year in 70 percent French and 30 percent American oak barrels, all of them new) Bright violet. Suave oak-spiced black and blue fruit, pipe tobacco and floral pastille aromas are complicated by mocha and vanilla flourishes. Plush and broad on the palate, offering sweet cassis and blackberry flavors that tighten up slowly…

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

(just 18 hectoliters per hectare produced, due to coulure and botrytis): Bright medium red. Reduced, slightly rustic aromas of tart red berries, leather, fresh herbs and licorice. Sappy and pure if a bit youthfully brutal today, with a crunchy quality to the pomegranate and cranberry flavors. This fruit was picked at 11% and chaptalized to…