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2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Canon has a clean and precise bouquet. Redcurrant, cranberry and wild strawberry scents gradually emerge, perhaps a little more tertiary than previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins—a strict Canon, quite saline with just a hint of licorice coming through toward the finish. Although it does not reach the imperial heights…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Volnay Santenots 1er Cru was one of the earliest ripening in this vintage. Precocious black cherries and a touch of kirsch on the nose, the palate is sweet and chewy, candied red fruit laced with orange peel with an almost Gamay-like on the finish (there’s none in here of course.) That’s probably because…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Walnut, hazelnut, butterscotch and a Tokaji-like suggestion of damp stone on the yeasty nose. Brisk in texture, quite dry and distinctly mature, with a nut skin note and slightly sour-edged acidity. But concentrated and firmly structured. A classic dinner table bubbly. Bollinger fans appreciate the mature flavors of this Champagne, but my sample seemed a…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc marries the natural energy of this cool year with lovely mid-palate creaminess and texture. Understated yet persistent, the 2021 presents a gorgeous display of pear, white flowers and mint, along with a subtle touch of oak that frames the finish. Today, the 2021 is quite a bit less expressive…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc has a nuanced, understated bouquet with yellow plum, Anjou pear and hints of honeysuckle—very low key and tightly knit, yet very well-defined. The palate is beautifully balanced with a tangy entry and a citric bead of acidity, revealing orange rind and kaki fruit toward the finish that is full…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 La Mission Haut-Brion Blanc has a much more nuanced bouquet than the Haut-Brion Blanc this year with scents of Japanese yuzu, crushed stone, apple blossom and a touch of elderflower. The palate is very well balanced with a fine line of acidity, taut and fresh, vibrant and focused. This is more linear than…