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Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino takes some time to blow off its youthfully reductive state, as sugar-dusted black cherries and savory herbs emerge from an air of white pepper and crushed stone. This is remarkably juicy and lifted in character, matched by a vibrant wave of red berries that coasts along the palate with ease,…

2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Radiance Personified (Nov 2020)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino displays rosy florals and bright strawberry complemented by sweet autumnal spice. There are depths of silky textures giving way to polished red/black fruits, with an attractive inner sweetness contrasted by saline-minerals and peppery herbs. Its tannins are round, creating a subtly structured feel through the licorice-tinged finale. With just a…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

White orchard fruit, mint, lime, apricot and sweet floral notes all blossom in the 2014 Doisy-Daëne. Finessed and nuanced on the palate, with expressive mineral notes underpinning the fruit, the wine exudes balance and class. This is a tremendous showing from the late Denis Dubourdieu.

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Doisy-Daëne has a fragrant bouquet with dried honey, almond, peach skin and orange blossom aromas that gently unfold with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and poised with a captivating undercurrent of mineralité that surfaces towards the finish and counters the richness of this finely made Sauternes….

Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999 (May 2019)

The 1996 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru puts in a splendid performance. Quite deep in colour (like many Pinots this vintage), it has a bewitching and precise bouquet with dark cherries, crushed stone, iris and oyster shells, gaining more and more delineation as it opens in the glass. The palate is very focused, fresh and vibrant, hints…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Darker, rather delicate aromas of blackberry, black raspberry and chocolate. Chewy and rich in the mouth, with obvious sweetness and density, but quite closed, even a bit brutal today. Muscular and tightly clenched. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins that are smooth rather than aggressive.