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Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Pucelles is a totally complete wine. It brings together the expressive bouquet and minerality of Combettes with some of the expressive fruit of the Folatières. Vivid and multi-dimensional in the glass, the Pucelles wraps around the palate with serious intensity. Citrus, white flowers and green pears linger on the highly nuanced, refined…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

(35% new oak; 100% vendange entier Medium red. Sexy aromas and flavors of redcurrant, smoke, chocolate and minerals. Suave and silky in texture, but with excellent energy and focus to the flavors. This has grand cru class and finishes with very fine tannins and terrific lingering perfume.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Deep red-ruby. Explosive nose offers superripe plum jam and chocolate notes complicated by smoked meat and lifted by minerality; some violet and black pepper nuances reminded me of Cote-Rotie. Large-scaled, broad and thick; less racy and delineated today than the young 2006 but then this very young wine’s minerality and fruit are currently hidden by…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2005 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, tasted from magnum (for some reason, it always seems to turn up in this format), is one of Sylvain Pitiot’s greatest successes. It was picked September 21 to September 24 (at 11am, to be exact). The yield was 27hl/ha with 14° alcohol. The precocity of the growing season…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, cropped at 35hl/ha, is the first year farmed biodynamically. This was completely breathtaking in barrel, and now, in bottle, nothing has changed in that respect. It has an ineffably complex bouquet, not as intense as it showed in barrel yet extremely deep and cerebral, black fruit mingling with…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(an approximation of the final blend): Bright, deep red. Very pure but reserved aromas of raspberry, crushed rock, rose petal, spices, mocha and tobacco, lifted by a calcaire pungency. Compellingly silky and seamless but with terrific energy and subtle intensity to its dense flavors of red berries, dark cherry, spices and powdered stone, complicated by…