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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Batailley has plenty of fruit on the nose: blackberry, raspberry, a touch of shoe leather and sage. The palate is medium-bodied with a slight bitterness on the entry, nicely balanced though, cedar and tobacco infusing the black fruit with a touch more fruit on the finish compared to Haut-Batailley. It just needs more…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Brane-Cantenac is a burly, powerful wine that will need quite a bit of time to come into its own, although it may never be particularly refined. Today the tannins are clenched and imposing, especially for the wine’s medium-bodied frame. Bright red stone fruit, white pepper and floral notes are some of the signatures.

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2014 Brane-Cantenac is similar to the bottle poured blind at the Southwold tasting just a few weeks earlier. It has a crisp red currant and cranberry bouquet laced with tobacco, cedar and chalk. The palate is well defined and beautifully balanced, delivering crisp acidity and fine tannin. This is unashamedly taut and linear, but…

Antinori Solaia From Magnum: 1978-2016 (Sep 2020)

The 2013 Solaia from magnum is a special wine. I spent a month in Tuscany that year, so my memories of the growing season are many. In the glass, the 2013 is exquisitely perfumed, vibrant and wonderfully nuanced. I wouldn’t plan on opening bottles anytime soon, but it’s great to see that the 2013 is…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Saturated ruby-red. Brilliant nose features kirsch, dark berries, and iron scents, with an overlay of perfumed, spicy oak. Lush, sweet and fragrant in the mouth, with a sappy freshness; clearly made from low yields. Finishes with toothcoating but suave tannins and remarkable persistence; stains the palate with spicy bitter cherry and citric skin flavor. As…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(87% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 1.5% each petit verdot and cabernet franc; 36% of the total crop) Full, bright, purple-tinged ruby. Violet and blackcurrants on the nose; with its dominant black fruits, this is completely different from the Pavillon Rouge, which is all about red fruits. Enters the mouth discreetly, then picks up volume…