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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, full ruby. Pure, vibrant aromas of cassis, blackberry, blueberry, licorice, graphite and leather. Like liquid velvet on entry, then energetic and sharply delineated in the mid-palate, with penetrating minerality intensifying the pristine dark berry flavors. Most impressive today on the extremely long, perfumed finish, which shows suave, noble tannins and a magically light touch…

1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014)

Taittinger’s 1996 Comtes de Champagne is another highlight. The flavors are only now beginning to show elements of complexity, a great sign for aging. Gently spiced and buttery notes suggest the 1996 is about to enter the early part of its maturity, where it is likely to stay for another decade or so.

Vinous Table: Bar Le Côte, Los Olivos, CA (Sep 2022)

Vinous readers are well aware of how much I like Taittinger’s Comtes de Champagne. The 1996 is in a perfect place right now, where it has mellowed nicely in middle age, while retaining plenty of energy. I am not sure it is going to improve meaningfully however, so I would be thinking about drinking any…

Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Green-gold. Vibrant, youthful, precise aromas of green apple, Meyer lemon and dusty citrus zest. Racy and taut on the palate, with a strong mousse and impressive focus and concentration to the tangy apple and citrus flavors. Juicy, palate-staining finish of striking purity. This is clearly an outstanding Champagne but needs some more time in bottle.

1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Bright ruby. Highly complex nose melds black raspberry, Indian spices, gunflint, tar and smoky oak; seemed to grow fresher and more vibrant with aeration. Dense, thick and highly concentrated, with brilliantly defined but still rather backward fruit flavors. Finishes with great length and extremely fine tannins that dust the entire mouth.

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 1998 Clos de Tart Grand Cru puts in a rather disappointing performance. At 20 years of age, it shows some bricking on the rim. The bouquet starts off well, offering generous red berry fruit and a touch of menthol, but with aeration it develops a more herbaceous character and then an element that is…