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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a mineral-driven bouquet with dark berry fruit, sous-bois and just a touch of dessicated orange peel. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fine acidity. Is it the most complex Lavaux? Maybe not, though it has an attractive juiciness mixed with sapidity that keeps you coming…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is so much more expressive on the nose compared to the Chambertin (which is a cooler terroir due to the clay, its location next to the combe and adjacent to the frost). Shimmering red fruit, crushed stone, orange pith and pressed iris petals make up the bouquet. You could…

A Beautiful Stay: Beau-Séjour Bécot 1970-2015 (Apr 2018)

The 1998 Beau-Séjour Bécot was picked between 29 September and 5 October. The colour is more youthful than either the 1995 or 1996 and the nose certainly more vibrant: cranberry and strawberry fruit, fine purity and well integrated oak. There is a sense of purpose about these aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin,…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Perfumed aromas of cherry, raspberry, cedar, licorice, tar and espresso. Fleshy and pliant, with ripe acids brightening the complex, fruit-driven flavors of cherry, raspberry, violet, licorice and mint. Not as powerful or ripe as the ’00, but this is a lovely, elegantly styled St. Emilion with considerable class. Finishes with suave tannins that reach…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Brion has a less precocious but more detailed bouquet, more nuanced perhaps with warm slates baking in the summer sun, tilled loam and cedar infusing the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, perfect acidity, layers of mineral-rich black fruit. This seems to have gained more complexity in recent years and…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Vivid deep ruby. Knockout fruity nose offers blackcurrant, strawberry, rosemary, truffle and a stony note. Then very closed in the middle, with cabernet sauvignon-dominated flavors of cassis, cigar box, cedar and minerals. Finishes long and deep, with massive but smooth tannins and a lingering note of violet. This will need plenty of time in the…