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The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Deep ruby-red. Knockout nose combines black cherry, lavender, potpourri spices and graphite minerality; high-toned and slightly liqueur-like. Then dense, seamless and vibrant in the mouth, with firm acidity giving outstanding energy to the dark fruit, floral and mineral flavors. Really spreads out on the back end and stays a while. Brilliantly delineated, complex wine with…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2006 Lynch-Bages has an airy bouquet, open but missing the same fruit intensity as other vintages. Light wild hedgerow, bilberry and touches of seaweed emerge but never fully get into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rigid tannins that frame the dusky black fruit. More austere than vintages from this era, it…

2000 and 1999 White Burgundies (Sep 2001)

Complex, pure aromas of pear liqueur, white flowers, fresh herbs, mint and dusty stone. Juicy, tightly wound and dominated by its strong mineral component. Very densely packed but unforthcoming and in need of six or seven years of bottle aging. Finishes with sneaky persistence and very good grip.

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1982 Léoville Poyferré has long been one of my favorite Saint-Julien wines, and this does not disappoint. Dark in color, it has a gorgeous bouquet of mulberry, raspberry, melted tar and rose petal aromas, and a little exoticism courtesy of a dab of fig. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and quite dense…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright medium ruby. Refined, floral aromas of black- and redcurrant, minerals and graphite; at once very ripe and subdued. Juicy, precise and penetrating; not hugely fleshy but stylish and elegant. Finishes with lovely grip and clarity. Nicely understated for the vintage.

Dom Pérignon: A Rosé Retrospective: 1962-2004 (May 2015)

The 1980 Dom Pérignon Rosé (magnum) is a real eye-opener. Perhaps jut a bit rough around the edges next to some of the other wines in this lineup, the 1980 nevertheless possesses superb depth, vinous intensity and texture. Tonight, the wine’s ample, generous personality is simply overwhelming in its beauty. What a gorgeous wine to…