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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Purple ruby. Highly complex, precise nose of red cherry, dark plum, black pepper and wet stone is complicated by cinnamon and clove. Deep and pure on entry, showing an easygoing, approachable charm and very good clarity to its ripe red and black fruit flavors. With its harmonious acidity and fine-grained tannins, this dense wine comes…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Toffee, earth and white chocolate on the nose, plus a strong suggestion of terroir. Concentrated and very rich, with a deep note of beurre blanc and a strong lemony flavor. The acidity carries the flavors through to a long, slightly sweet/sour finish. Like the ’83, this wine is impressively endowed but comes across as somewhat…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Village comes from several parcels and sees 30% new oak. It displays darker fruit than the Nuits Saint-Georges, all well defined and precise and displaying fine mineralité. The palate is very well structured, offering more depth and grip. The detailed, almost honeyed finish at present disguises the terroir expression.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

My sample of the 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Village contained no new oak, but there will be 15% in the final blend. It has an effervescent nose that seems to spring from the glass with its ebullient red cherries and wild strawberry. The palate is full of crunchy red fruit laced with citrus peel, fine tension with…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Meursault Clos des Bouchères 1er Cru has a nuanced, quite strict and precise bouquet. It opens with pressed white flower and subtle fumé scents, hints of almond and white chocolate loitering in the wings. The palate has a great deal of concentration on the front end, a real mass of Meursault here. As…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru is matured entirely in new oak. It soaks up that wood nicely thanks to the ample fruit concentration of black cherries and cassis, here joined by attractive pine/cedar aromas that gain intensity with every swirl of the glass. The palate is a little woody at the moment and needs more…