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Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2012 Masseto is an incredibly sexy wine. I can’t believe how expressive it is here. The year was mostly warm and dry, but not excessively so. Raspberry jam, mint, spice, white chocolate and sweet floral notes all race out of the glass. Sumptuous in feel, with gorgeous, open-knit fruit and soaring aromatic intensity, the…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 55/45 blend of cabernet franc and merlot; cropped at 27 hectoliters per hectare; ph 3.56; 14.5% alcohol; 100% new oak) Bright, saturated ruby-red. Very cabernet franc- and limestone-driven on the nose, offering enticing scents of red berries, cocoa, spicy minerals and violet. Impressively intense flavors of red and dark berries are complicated by bitter…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Ausone has a sumptuous bouquet with pure blackberry, raspberry, rose petal and orange blossom aromas. The wine is beautifully defined blossoms with aeration. It becomes very liquorice and menthol-like after 10 minutes’ aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. It is not a powerful 2009 and it feels sleek and quite tensile….

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright ruby-red. Serious medicinal reserve to the aromas of iron, violet and coconutty oak. A real mineral bath on the palate, with outstanding concentration and energy to the flavors of dark berries and flowers. Hiding more than it’s showing today and destined for three or four decades of improvement in bottle. The remarkably palate-staining finish…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Deep red-ruby. Musky dark cherry, plum, espresso, graphite and nutty oak on the nose. Supple, plump and sweet, but with a firm spine of acidity. Just a tad cool in the style of the year but with a fine grain to its texture. Finishes broad and dry, with substantial dusty tannins and good aromatic persistence.

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Medium ruby. High-pitched aromas of raspberry, coffee, cocoa and graphite. Dense, sappy and quite dry, with serious acidity giving spine to the flavors of red fruits, coffee, spices and graphite. Not an easy style but sharply chiseled and taut. Finishes with good subtle length. I find this has sneaky concentration and depth.