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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a terse, stoic, delineated bouquet with scents of wet limestone and sea spray, just a slight menthol note developing with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. A very pretty, elegant Bienvenue that reveals hints of blood orange and sour lemon on the precise,…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a touch more pungency compared to the Bienvenue, but perhaps not quite the same alluring charm, at least at this primordial stage. The palate is where it’s at: supremely well balanced, exuding a sense of coiled-up energy countered by a dense, persistent finish. A bit of a beast, but…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(the 2017 premier crus are aging in about 20% new oak): Aromas of peach, vanilla and spicy oak are lifted by stony energy. Precise and clean, showing lovely density without any impression of weight. A strong peach flavor is accented by a touch of minerality on the subtly long back end.

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

The most aromatically expressive of these wines to this point, with peach and floral notes suggesting riper fruit than the Clavoillon. Juicy and nicely delineated in the mouth, with an element of rocky minerality giving the stone fruit flavors a complementary saline quality. Finishes with excellent rising length.

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Sexy if rather reticent aromas of peach and minerals suggest moderately ripe grapes. In a cooler style in the mouth, offering good breadth but not the clarity of the 2017 version. Finishes with good dusty persistence but I wanted a bit more verve.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Pale, bright yellow. Sexy, expressive aromas of pineapple, stone fruits, hawthorn, almond flower and spicy oak. Silky and full but surprisingly light on its feet, showing captivating floral lift and definition to its lemon, peach and smoky mineral flavors. This vibrant, fine-grained wine coats the cheeks and leaves the mouth refreshed.