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Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Fairly pale yellow. Vibrant aromas of pineapple, grapefruit, licorice, and fresh herbs, plus a petrolly riesling-like pungency. Moderately thick, racy and stylish, with flavors similar to the aromas. Very youthful and given clarity by sound acidity. The petrol note carries through to the long, bright aftertaste. Very ’88, and very Barsac.

Vinous Table: The Sportsman, Kent, UK (Sep 2022)

The infamous 1981 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Château de Beaucastel is certainly not the most bretty example that I have encountered, maybe just a little tired on the nose compared to the 1978 Télégraphe. The palate is much better with roasted chestnut and game infusing the leather black fruit and displaying tremendous depth on the finish. Bottles…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(40 h/h; 12.5% alcohol): Bright red. Very pure floral nose with enticing aromas of redcurrant, violet, minerals, licorice, lead pencil and coffee: very cabernet franc! Then linear, pure and juicy, with pristine flavors of red berries, dark plum, minerals and coffee. This midweight finishes clean and smoothly tannic, offering amazing balance and an impression of…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Léoville Las-Cases is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot (this bottled had been re-corked at the property in 2014). This was a late harvest that began on 4 October and lasted for 12 days. This seems to have matured on the nose since I…

The Marital Margaux: d’Issan 1945-2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1985 d’Issan has a slightly deeper appearance compared to the 1983 and the bouquet has lasted far better: gravel-tinged red berry fruit, sage, dried blood and hints of cured meat. I would not describe it as animally though, it is galloping in that direction, possibly indicating some presence of brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied…

Focus on California (May 2000)

Saturated ruby-red. Multidimensional nose offers a panoply of scents: black plum, currant, leather, smoked meat, cigar ash, lead pencil, sandalwood, dark chocolate, licorice, brown sugar. Very bright and sharply defined; flavors of plum, leather, hot stones and lead pencil. An impeccably balanced wine of compelling sweetness, but rather dominated today by its structure. Strong, thoroughly…