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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux 1er Cru, which I learned takes under an hour to pick, was showing just a little reduction on the nose, which is quite savory compared to the Aux Brûlées; it develops light ferrous notes with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and ebullient red berry fruit suffused with…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux 1er Cru showed just a tiny reduction on the nose, but that cannot contain the layers of red fruit, wilted violet, oyster shell and sea spray aromas. The palate is silky smooth on the entry with a fine bead of acidity, silky smooth, poised and offering a kaleidoscope of red…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Richebourg Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet that expands with aeration (in this case, while I talked with Jean-Nicolas Méo about jogging). Presenting a mixture of red and black fruit, crushed stone and hints of violet and iris, this is a multifaceted bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied and very different: much more structured,…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is quite intense on the nose with flinty, slightly fumé scents complementing the green apple and pear notes, becoming more citric with aeration. The palate is beautifully balanced with gorgeous dried orange peel, chamomile and hints of white pepper, fanning out gloriously on the finish. Bon vin.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Richebourg Grand Cru has a much more imposing bouquet compared to the Cros Parantoux, the intense blackberry, bilberry, crushed stone and clove scents gently unfurling in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins and enormous depth, yet gentle in terms of grip. There is a sense of symmetry on the finish…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru has a refined and beautifully focused bouquet, like the Aux Brûlées, a gradual build of red fruit laced with crushed stone and wilted rose petal. The palate is very focused with finely chiselled tannins, fanning out wonderfully on the finish. Perhaps a much more elegant Richebourg than its peers, this…