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Northern Rhône: Solid ’14 Reds and Outstanding ’15 Whites (Jul 2017)

Dark purple. An explosively perfumed bouquet evokes ripe dark berries, cola, incense and smoky minerals, and a suave floral topnote builds in the glass. Stains the palate with deeply concentrated black and blue fruit, violet pastille and spicecake flavors; juicy acidity provides back-end cut and lift. Espresso, licorice and dark fruit liqueur notes cling on…

1998 and 1997 Sauternes (Jul 2000)

Lively, sweet aromas of citrus skin and peach complicated by spice, resin and marzipan from the new oak. Lively, intense apricot and spice flavors are currently quite tightly wound and dominated by the oak. Racy and stylish, but in need of aging. Showing very much as it did a year ago from barrel.

2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)

Pale color. Intriguing, complex, slightly reduced nose hints at mirabelle, smoke, truffle, minerals and menthol. Fat and full in the mouth, but currently a bit low-toned, with a complicating fusel nuance. Today the element of vanillin oak is quite apparent. Rather unctuous for the property and for the vintage.

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2004 Climens has a strict bouquet that is overshadowed by the superior 2005, a little drier and more timid, candle wax and lanolin permeating the light honeyed fruit. The palate is better with quince, saffron, white pepper and a touch of chlorine. A little bitterness towards the finish lends freshness. Somewhat awkward, yet fascinating….

2008 Sauternes and Barsacs (May 2010)

Bright golden yellow. Fresh apricot, orange oil, hazelnut and racy spices on the tangy nose. Silky, lush and deep, with superb balancing acidity keeping this utterly seamless wine light on its feet. Showing more spice than apricot fruit now but this refined, very long wine is dusty with material and very long and subtle on…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2008 Climens delivers 132g/L residual sugar. It has a much less expressive nose than the 2009: honey, wet wool, slightly petrolly in style. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, great depth and intensity, showing more clarity than the nose suggests. I would afford this another two or three…