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New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

(60% pint noir and 40% chardonnay; 71% of the fruit is from grand cru sites and rest from premier crus; disgorged February, 2011): Light gold. Ripe pear and honey on the explosively perfumed nose, with sexy floral and marzipan nuances expanding with air. Fat, full and palate-coating, boasting impressive power and thrust. Shows an intriguing…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2011)

The 2002 Brut La Grande Année is marvelous. The 2002 is an understated Grande Année that caresses the palate with layers of effortless, weightless fruit. The mousse is exceptionally fine, which adds to the impression of total elegance. This is a relatively bright, floral Grande Année with plenty of aromatic lift, inner perfume and no…

Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

(disgorged March 15, 2006) Light gold. Dramatic aromas of ripe peach, pear, mango, musky yellow plum, fig, buttery brioche, toasted nuts and baking spices. Rich, deep and expansive on the palate, with powerful, deeply concentrated flavors of yellow peach, tropical fruit, toasted nuts, sweet butter, toffee and marzipan utterly filling the mouth. An endless parade…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 1996 R.D. (2012 disgorgement) is in a gorgeous spot right now. A stunning set of aromas and flavors have developed in bottle, making the 1996 a real treat to taste and drink at this stage. Scents of coffee, hazelnut, honey, dried flowers, menthol and candied orange peel all lift from the glass. Mature and…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 1996 R.D. (2007 disgorgement) is, not surprisingly, more advanced than the 2012 disgorgement tasted alongside. Orange peel, hazelnut and coffee overtones all flesh out in an ample, full-bodied R.D. that is fully mature. I prefer the younger disgorgement here as the 2007 disgorgement is starting to fray at the edges.

Vintage Retrospective: The 2010 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2020)

Bright dark ruby. Initially reticent nose opened in the glass to reveal wonderfully complex scents of black- and redcurrant, blackberry, minerals, licorice, loam and tobacco leaf, plus a whiff of leather. Seamless, savory and classy on entry if a bit subdued, then delivers lovely restrained sweetness and a complicating wildness in the middle palate that…