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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium red with an amber edge. Highly nuanced nose combines red- and blackcurrant, mocha, dried herbs, olive, truffle and underbrush. Very dense and sweet, but with terrific penetration and verve thanks to firm, harmonious acidity. Finishes with broad, ripe tannins and superb length. This bottle came across as young and still evolving. Drink now through…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Cos d’Estournel has a well-defined bouquet that takes a few swirls of the glass to get going. It is not complex or vigorous, yet nicely detailed. Melted tar and cigar humidor infuse the black fruit, becoming earthier with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity. This feels quite masculine…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Red-ruby. Wild aromas of redcurrant, minerals, leather, gunflint and game; developing faster than either of the more recent vintages are likely to do. A wine of modest density and fat, and currently rather austere, but possesses very good vinosity and length. Tannins are slightly dry but fine.

Long and Winding Road: Ausone 1912–1999 (Mar 2018)

The 1982 Ausone is a wine that I have tasted three or four times before, always a good but perhaps not great expression of the vintage, since it would be a good few years before Alain Vauthier could improve the winemaking. At 36 years of age it is showing quite wide bricking on the rim….

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

The bottle in the blind flight showed rather autumnal aromas and an element of old wood on the nose; modest volume and sweetness; and some unabsorbed acidity on the back end. Second bottle: Full healthy red with a hint of amber. Cool, laid-back aromas of cherry, minerals and menthol. Dense with extract but extremely dry,…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2003 Yquem was a homogenous harvest picked over a single trie between 17 and 26 September. It has a rich and opulent nose, crème brûlée, marmalade and a melted candle wax aroma. The palate has more to offer than the nose: fine acidity, less closed than the aromatics, touches of orange rind and mandarin…