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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Red-ruby. Smoky, tarry aromas of baked plum and coffee. Sweet and fat, with concentrated flavors of plum, cedar and mocha, but showing a slightly offputting raw note in the middle. Finishes with dusty, slightly dry tannins and a faint greenness. Seems rather heavily extracted.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Medium ruby. Superripe aromas and flavors of blueberry, blackberry, bitter chocolate, licorice, menthol and Asian spices. Big, chocolatey and rich; much broader and more backward than the Carruades I tasted next to it but without that wine’s perfume and light touch. Finishes chewy and youthfully medicinal, with a classic dryness and substantial tannins that call…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2005 Duhart-Milon is a bit of a beast. Displays quite a dense, unforgiving pencil lead and tobacco-scented nose, and the fruit seems to take a back seat at the moment. The palate is well-balanced but undeniably brawny and rough-hewn, the kind of Pauillac you wouldn’t want to meet down a dark alley at midnight….

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Filhot is rather anonymous on the nose, either very closed down at this stage or just missing some vigour. The palate is balanced with modest levels of acidity with a pleasing fatness on the finish. Quite Barsac-like in style, this is a very fine Filhot, one of the best in recent years. Tasted…

Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)

Intense yellow-gold color. Very deep, rich aromas of guava, mango and honey complicated by floral and oaky nuances. On the palate, honeyed apricot and dried peach flavors struggle to emerge from beneath the vanillin oak. The finish is pure and persistent, but with a slight vegetal streak and mounting, almost drying tannins. There appears to…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Deep purple-ruby. Reticent but nuanced nose hints at cassis, brown spices and smoky herbs. Lush and seamless in the mouth, with lovely precision if not palate-busting concentration to the red cherry, blackcurrant, cocoa and underbrush flavors. Really spreads out on the palate and vibrates on the long, aromatic aftertaste. A wine of sneaky concentration and…