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Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Léoville Las-Cases was much feted back in the day, with perfect scores commonplace, though over the years I have found it rather curmudgeonly and surpassed by the ’86. This has an intriguing bouquet that takes time to cohere, revealing scents of blackberry, leather, loam and light liquorice. The palate is medium-bodied with firm…

Vinous Table: Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, New York (Dec 2015)

Sadly, it is not a great night for Bordeaux. The 1982 Léoville Las Cases is powerful but also incredibly compact, with little appeal or mid-palate depth. This is a very stubborn wine, even within the context of Las Cases.

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a dark, powerful, somber Pauillac. Dark fruit, grilled herbs, smoke and licorice add to its distinctly brooding personality. In multiple tastings the 2017 has been incredibly tight and shut down. Readers will have to be especially patient. Estate Director Nicolas Glumineau has overseen a number of showy, majestic…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Pichon-Lalande has closed down a little on the nose since it was bottled late June. But it is still very well defined, quite Cabernet-influenced with cedar and graphite aromas emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. It is a very lithe Pichon-Lalande that in some ways harks back to the…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Pavie has been impressive on the two occasions I have tasted it so far. Exotic scents of graphite, smoke, new leather and dark fruit open up first. Deep, intense and rich, especially within the context of the year, the 2012 finds greater finesse and nuance with time in bottle. Pavie is a rare…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

Good full purple-ruby. Sexy aromas of blackberry, black cherry and vanilla are complicated by hints of violet and graphite. Seamless, fine-grained and lightly saline, with tactile flavors of blueberry, cocoa and pepper. Very impressive balance and depth here. Finishes with supple tannins and outstanding length. A huge success for what is a less extracted style…