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Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(90% merlot and 10% cabernet franc; 27 hl/ha; 100% new oak) Inky-purple color. Brooding, complex aromas of blueberry juice, air-dried plum and balsamic vinegar, with a touch of dusty minerality. Sweet and massive on entry, this conveys a serious sense of huge power but also impeccable balance to its black fruit and sweet spice flavors….

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright medium ruby. Brooding, pure aromas of blackberry, blueberry, boysenberry, espresso and minerals. Wonderfully dense yet weightless, with a penetrating calcaire energy to its sappy black fruit and mineral flavors. This has filled out impressively since its early days in barrel but is still just at the beginning of its evolution. The slowly mounting, compellingly…

Bordeaux’s Radiant 2015s (Apr 2016)

The 2015 Ausone is the embodiment of class. A seamless, mind-blowing wine, the Ausone boasts extraordinary purity and finesse. The flavors are deep and unctuous throughout, and yet the wine is remarkably vivid. A host of sweet floral notes and exotic spices are fused into the eternal finish. In 2015, Ausone is as good as…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Ausone has a detailed, precise bouquet whose intense, graphite-infused black fruit gains intensity with each swirl. This is very sophisticated and compelling. The poised, medium-bodied palate delivers filigreed tannin, perfect acidity and an extraordinarily persistent finish that outclasses almost everything around it. This is outstanding and surely represents one of the wines of…

Napa Valley’s Extraordinary 2016 Cabernets (Dec 2018)

The 2014 Opus One is not as showy or obvious as some of the other surrounding vintages, but it will have its day. Stylistically, the 2014 is bright and also a touch linear, with a construction built more on focus rather than opulence. Readers should plan on giving the 2014 another few years in bottle…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

Powerful, dense and tightly wound, the 2006 Dom Pérignon is fabulous today. To be sure, the 2006 is a broad, virile Champagne, but I find it compelling because of its phenolic depth and overall intensity. Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy adds that August was quite cold and wet, and that ripening only happened at the…