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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Mouton Rothschild has a powerful nose with slightly smudged summer fruit, leather, dates, forest floors and a touch of eucalyptus. The palate is medium-bodied and fleshy, with powdery tannins and better acidity than the Clerc Milon. It’s quite tertiary, with just a little VA on the roasted coffee bean finish. The question is…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

Just weeks after tasting the 2001 Château d’Yquem at the estate, another bottle was served at a lunch in London and it was perfection. The aromatics are practically identical and likewise the palate, but this bottle, which had been decanted, displays a scintilla more tension, perhaps more “vibrancy” that so effortlessly counterbalances the richness. Irrespective…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Château d’Yquem at 20 years old: a legend? It certainly received much adulation on release. As a reminder, it was picked over five tries from September 18 to October 23 and has 150g/L of residual sugar. Limpid gold in color, as you would expect, it looks quite youthful for a Sauternes of this…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good red-ruby. Redcurrant, leather and game on the expressive if slightly rustic nose. Sweet and concentrated but a bit youthfully aggressive, and not showing the refinement or definition of the 2006. Strong nutty oak component. Finishes with substantial tannins that are a bit richer and more fully buffered by the wine’s middle-palate material than those…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep red. Initially sauvage aromas of plum, leather, game and earth, with higher-pitched blueberry and blackberry emerging with aeration. Sweet, concentrated and densely packed, with a youthfully medicinal character to the dark fruit flavors. Finishes with firm, dusty tannins. Impressively constituted but seems less pure than it was from barrel the spring after the harvest….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Grand Puy-Lacoste has a clean and precise bouquet with graphite infused red berry fruit, woodland scents, fern and touches of autumn leaves. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite bold and assertive with dried blood and ferrous notes infusing the red fruit towards the persistent finish. You could broach this now although…