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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Grand Puy Lacoste is one of the great vintages from this estate in the modern era. It storms from the glass with scents of blackberry, undergrowth, cedar and mint, retaining the classicism of GPL. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity. Very harmonious with a gorgeous, lithe, graphite…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good medium ruby. Ripe, slightly high-toned aromas and flavors of cassis and chocolate, lifted by cedar and minerals. Then more dark berries and minerals in the mouth, complicated by a candied violet nuance. Not particularly large-scaled in what is a generally exotic, very ripe vintage, but intensely flavored and very well delineated, offering an enticing…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(80% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot and 2% cabernet franc; pH 3.72; 75 IPT; 70% new oak) Purple ruby. Smoky blackberry, blueberry juice, chocolate and a whiff of iron on the nose. With air, this became silky, pliant and rather easygoing, with good depth to the flavors of small dark berries and flint. Finishes with creamy…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Bright dark ruby. Sweet, superripe aromas of raspberry, plum, black cherry, tobacco, toffee and game. Like liquid velvet in the mouth: sweet, voluptuous, seamless. Palate-staining flavors of black cherry, chocolate and smoky oak. Finishes with chewy, toothfurring tannins and great persistence.

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

Tasted several times, the 1986 Yquem is a sublime expression of the vintage. It was the opposite of the previous year as it saw widespread botrytis after 40mm of rain in late October followed by a sunny November. It comes armed with an effervescent bouquet with pure honey, almond, quince and saffron, that patisserie scent…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Saturated ruby-red. Wild aromas of plum, cured meat, milk chocolate, smoke, mace and cinnamon stick. Sweet and opulent for the vintage, with a distinctly velvety texture to the flavors of plum, mulberry, smoked meat and exotic spices. Finishes broad and sweet, with sexy suggestions of woodsmoke, chocolate and wild herbs. I’ve had a soft spot…