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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Moderately saturated medium red. Subdued aromas of red berries, mocha and spicy oak are lifted by a floral quality. Not especially fleshy or sweet but more penetrating than the Clos Saint-Marc, showing good floral lift and more flavor interest. Turns a bit lean and herbal on the back end, though, finishing with slightly dry, dusty…

Germany 2011 (Jan 2013)

Bright aromas of white peach, pine nut and lime. The seductive nectarine fruit and barely perceptible minerality are complicated by smoky spices. Slightly austere, this wine shines with its poise and finesse, boasting good depth and a persistent finish.

Rheinhessen Riesling 2016: The Triumph of Subtlety (May 2018)

Pungently zesty lime and grapefruit peels meet on the nose, accompanied by quarry-dust chalkiness. On the surprisingly lush palate, tangy pineapple core and juicy, pit-inflected white peach join the citrus peels and dusty chalk. The wine finishes with vibrancy; admirable transparency to chalky, stony, alkaline detail; pronounced piquancy that manages not to turn into outright…

2022 Wachau and Lower Austria: An Overshadowed Vintage Worth Exploring (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Grüner Veltliner Käferberg is grown on dark amphibolite and fermented in large used wood. There is a slight spray of floral charm before supple yeast takes over on the nose. The palate is flowing, completely edged by citrus that brings out the red-green apple juiciness of the mid-palate. All of this is a…

2024 Wachau and Lower Austria: Calamities and Coups de Coeur (Jun 2025)

The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Käferberg, from volcanic amphibolite soils, opens with a slight reductive funkiness. The palate is smooth and elongated, edged with lemon zest and a lovely pithiness that adds salt. There is some alcoholic power, but the more you savor, the more this delicious saltiness comes to the fore. Wonderfully zesty, wonderfully long.

2024 Wachau and Lower Austria: Calamities and Coups de Coeur (Jun 2025)

The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Ried Käferberg comes from soils that unite clay and maritime sediments with a loess cover. It was fermented and aged in a range of barrel sizes. The nose is shy; only a slight savor of miso and Mirabelle plum appears. On the palate, the wine is smooth and flows with beautifully…