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Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Cheval Blanc has a limpid deep people hue with noticeable tears in the glass. The bouquet demands several minutes to really open, delivering a payload of intense black cherry and blueberry fruit, pressed violet, a hint of licorice and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins, and quite dense and…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has an attractive bouquet with melted candle wax, yellow plum and lanolin aromas. I appreciate the typicité in this Corton Charlemagne, and it is well-defined. It’s one of the most intellectual aromatics that you have to sit and ponder. The palate is taut and fresh. There’s a clever reduction at…

2014 Barolo: Late Releases (Nov 2018)

Roberto Conterno opened the 2013 Barolo Cerretta as a comparison with the 2014. Powerful, dense and incredibly tannic, the 2013 is a potent, classically austere Barolo that will only soften with time. The only question is how much. Sage, licorice and rose petal overtones start to emerge with air, but readers should not be thinking…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Figeac, now at 20 years old, was a vintage that was affected by the hailstorm during the summer. This bottle is more open than the magnum poured at the vertical in 2015, but the aromatic profile is the same with rustic red berry fruit, ferrous notes and just a touch of juniper berry….

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. Rich, new-oaky nose of raspberry, cedar and coffee shows an almost liqueur-like sweetness. Dense, sweet and refined, with superb richness for Figeac. Still quite youthful. Finishes with huge but fine oak-influenced tannins and excellent persistence. Drink 2008 through 2025.

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

Opaque ruby. Highly fragrant aromas of black raspberry, cherry compote, lavender oil and Indian spices. Densely packed, focused and juicy, with intense red and dark berry flavors given spine and lift by zesty acidity. Shows serious intensity and finishes with outstanding clarity and floral persistence.