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Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

The 2009 Dom Pérignon is open, seductive and radiant, as it has always been. Soft curves, mid-weight structure and tons of plain allure make the 2009 impossible to resist in its youth. This bottle, the best I have tasted so far, offers a distinc citrus and floral-driven profile that adds a good deal of brightness….

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

The 1995 Cristal (Late Disgorged) is fascinating to taste, as it is quite different in style from the original release. Because of the extra three years or so on the lees, the 1995 Cristal (Late Disgorged) has picked up a reductive note that is not typical of Cristal. Scents of lime, crushed rock, lemon and…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Very strong mousse. Deep, yeasty aromas dominated by toffee, butterscotch and toast. Quite powerful but already harmonious, with real thickness of flavor and oily extract leavened by ripe acidity. Very fresh in the mouth, with very ripe hints of yellow fruits and strawberry complicated by leesy and toasty flavors in the background. A large-scaled, extremely…

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1989 Lafite-Rothschild, a wine that I have had several times both from bottle and magnum, is a better wine than the 1990, although I wonder whether its best days are now behind it. There is noticeably more bricking on the rim compared directly with the succeeding vintage. I also notice a touch of VA…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Full-blown aromas of caramel, toffee, honey, white chocolate and damp earth; slightly Tokaj-like. Hugely concentrated and layered in the mouth; extraordinary sweetness cut by harmonious acidity. As with the best vintages of Yquem, the finish goes on for a minute or more. Stains, and stuns, the palate. A huge wine, surprisingly extravagant on the nose…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

My solitary encounter with the 1969 Yquem came during a memorable vertical organized by CEC Wines in London. It has a light floral nose with touches of orange peel, perhaps showing a little maderization. The palate cannot disguise the tricky growing season with its conspicuous lack of botrytis, yet as I remarked at the tasting,…