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Mother & Child: La Lagune 1962 – 2015 (Apr 2018)

The 2003 La Lagune was the first vintage whereby Denis Dubourdieu acted as consultant. It has a more fruit forward bouquet compared to the 2002 and it has aged well, offering redcurrant, dried fig and a touch of tinned prune on the nose, yet without the VA or sur-maturité that afflict other 2003s. The palate…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Medium ruby-red. Sappy aromas of blueberry, black cherry and licorice, with some suggestions of surmaturite Suave and silky on entry, then rich and rather elegant in the middle, with dark berry flavors showing a restrained sweetness. This stylish La Lagune opens out nicely toward the back, finishing with building tannins, some toasty oak and very…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Batailley is statesmanlike and beautifully defined on the nose with mineral-rich black fruit, Cuban cigar and mint aromas that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, clean and precise yet unequivocally backward and almost surly towards the grippy, saline, mineral-driven finish. This is an outstanding Pauillac in 2009 and…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Cos d’Estournel was picked between 27 September and 14 October and comprises of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. At the time it was compared with the 1966 and 1986 vintages. I appreciate the bouquet: melted dark chocolate intermingling with dark berry fruit, clove and tobacco. The amount of Cabernet used was relatively…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Medium red-ruby. Aromas of blueberry, blackberry, minerals and leather. Supple on entry, then moderately ripe in the middle, with notes of minerals and tobacco leaf. Finishes with a slight dryness. This seems to have gone into a shell following the bottling.

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2003 Brane-Cantenac has never been the best vintage of recent years. Here, the wine is still smudged and earthy on the nose, displaying less aniseed than I have observed in the past. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, toffee-tinged red fruit and a rather monotonous finish that pales against other vintages. Drink soon….