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Chile: Thinking Outside The Box (Jun 2023)

The 2020 Blend Clos Apalta is 64% Carménère, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot from Apalta, Colchagua. It was aged for 27 months in 85% new barrels. Rich purple in hue. The clearly defined, ripe, complex nose has a leafy character underlined by fruit such as prune and blueberry jam along with…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Vivid purple. Highly aromatic nose shows dark berry preserves, potpourri and white pepper. Lush, creamy blackberry and blueberry flavors are lifted by peppery spices and framed by velvety tannins. The sappy finish clings with very good authority and repeats the blueberry note, with a late note of candied licorice building with air.

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good deep red. Bitter cherry, dark chocolate and licorice on the very ripe nose, with a slight suggestion of energetic extraction. Supple on entry, then broad and dry toward the back, with the rather substantial tannins arriving late. Finishes with a repeating note of bitter chocolate.

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good deep red. Wild red fruits, musky game, roast coffee, black licorice and a peppery nuance on the highly complex, soil-inflected nose. Dense, fresh and concentrated; sappy and juicy for all its power. There’s a captivating chewiness to the spicy red fruit and mineral flavors. Very slow to unfold on the back end, finishing with…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

(85% grenache and 15% syrah) Glass-staining ruby. Vivid raspberry and mulberry scents are complemented by dried violet and licorice. Showing more vivacity than it did last year, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors and showing no rough edges or obvious tannins. The finish repeats the dark berry and licorice notes and lingers with impressive…

The Noble Wines of Southern Italy (Aug 2010)

The 2003 is a fascinating Serpico. The wine boasts impressive concentration in its dark, rich fruit. This is an incredibly primary Serpico, with little in the way of tertiary development. Ideally, it is best left alone for another few years, but readers fortunate enough to own this are in for a thrilling ride once the…