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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Ségla was tasted under two different closures. The first under cork, offers blackberry, briary and touches of violet on the quintessential Margaux nose that gains intensity with aeration. Very impressive. The palate is medium-bodied with fine boned tannins, superb depth and body with an energetic, very focused finish that leaves a longer spicy…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Alluring 2023s and Benchmark 2010s (Nov 2024)

The 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau is spot-on. Pronounced licorice, forest floor, tobacco, blackberry jam and a nuance of garrigue are all pushed forward. Powerful and savory, the 2010 is a full-bodied, seriously structured Vieux Télégraphe that’s built for the long haul. Give it four more years to start revealing its full potential.

Vintage Retrospective: The 2007 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2017)

(15.2% alcohol): Dark ruby-red. Roasted currant, mocha, milk chocolate and a truffley nuance on the very ripe nose. Densely packed and sweet but a bit heavy in spite of a savory quality. Black cherry and licorice flavors are buffered by mocha and herbs. Finishes plump and persistent.

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2009)

Dark ruby. Currant, minerals, dark chocolate, tobacco, loam, smoke, roast coffee and spicebox scents on the complex nose. Lush, concentrated and broad, with a seamless texture and a captivating restrained sweetness. A wine with serious stuffing, and a step up in intensity and suavity from the Ranch bottling. Finishes very long, with slowly mounting flavors…

Picture This: Domaine Henri Gouges 1945 – 2016 (Oct 2018)

The 2011 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru has a potent leafy bouquet, an incongruous old sock malodorous tincture that rather puts me off! Fortunately that dissipates with time, developing preferable tobacco and sous-bois notes. I would just like more fruit. The palate has supple tannin on the entry. There is more flesh than the…

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Moderately saturated medium red. Tight, pure nose offers restrained scents of cherry, flowers and peppery spices. Then sweet but taut in the mouth; impressively concentrated owing to the very low yield here but quite closed and hard to taste today. Perfumed and powerful wine but ungiving, and showing less sweetness than the Vaucrains. I’d hold…