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Tail Fin Delights: Mâconnais 2023/2024 (Aug 2025)

The 2023 Pouilly-Fuissé Vers Cras 1er Cru comes from limestone soils. It has a more weighty, dense nose than the Les Reisses although for me it does not quite deliver the same complexity and mineralité by direct comparison. The palate is well balanced with citrus-lemon and orange rind on the entry, the mineralité coming through…

Looking Back: 2007 Sauternes (Oct 2022)

The 2007 Château de Myrat has quite a strong, petrolly bouquet that slightly obscures the terroir expression. The palate is well balanced with tangy marmalade and quince on the entry. Good acidity here, and it gains more clarity towards the finish. As the aromatics calm down, this turns into a fine Sauternes. Tasted at the…

2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)

Full yellow-gold with an orange tinge. Fat and lower-toned on the nose, a bit lacking in lift today. Then surprisingly lean on the palate, with some disjointed acidity apparent. Hard to taste at present.

Cellar Favorite: Castell’in Villa Library Releases (Jul 2025)

The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva, a library release, is stellar. Dark, ample and explosive, the 2010 is just entering the first part of its drinking window. Black cherry, graphite, leather, scorched earth and incense add to an impression of brooding intensity. There is a touch of oak sweetness, a reminder that the estate introduced some…

Barbaresco: The Highs & Lows of 2016-2020 (Oct 2020)

The 2017 Barbaresco Serraboella captures all the best the vintage has to offer. Floral and lifted, the 2017 is a bit more red-fruited and lighter in body than most vintages, but it has plenty of depth as well. A more gracious, finessed side of this Neive cru emerges over time. The 2017 is a sensual,…

Barbaresco 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages (Nov 2019)

The 2016 Barbaresco Serraboella is rich, powerful and explosive, with tremendous depth. A Barbaresco of structure and intensity. Just as it showed from barrel, the 2016 is powerful and imposing, with layers of deeply-pitched, balsamic aromas and flavors woven into its virile, tannic frame. Readers will have to be patient with the 2016, as it…