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Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Pale color. Knockout aromas of lime blossom, orange peel, minerals and cilantro. Almost painfully intense on entry, then rich and superconcentrated. Vibrant flavors of orange pith, lime and mint offer great thrust without any heaviness. Extraordinarily long for Champagne. A remarkable wine that may yet improve in bottle.

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Petrus vies with Haut-Brion and La Mission as the wine of the vintage. Certainly, in Pomerol, nothing comes close. This is a stunning bottle with ferrous-tinged black fruit, freshly rolled tobacco, Earl Grey and just a hint of wild mint. The palate displays heavenly poise and fine tannins. This Pomerol is effortlessly harmonious…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Cheval Blanc is one of the wines of the vintage. Vertical and aristocratic in bearing, Cheval is just stunning. Time in the glass brings out compelling inner sweetness and perfume to play off a core of rich dark fruit, gravel, spice, menthol and dried flowers. I also tasted the final three blending components,…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Cheval Blanc was picked between September 22 and October 14, and for the first time in many years there is a higher proportion of Cabernet Franc. This has a lovely bouquet, very clean and precise, featuring black cherry, wild mint, sous-bois and orange sorbet, all vivacious and very focused. The palate is medium-bodied…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

Rich and explosive in feel, the 2021 Cheval Blanc is outrageously beautiful. For the first time since 2011, the Grand Vin is more than 50% Cabernet Franc. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, dried herbs, menthol, licorice and mocha are all amplified in this potent, luxurious Cheval Blanc. Polished, seamless tannins wrap it all together. This is…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Cheval Blanc, the first vintage since 2011 with over half Cabernet Franc, has a very deep color in the glass. The nose is well-defined with tightly coiled red fruit and iodine scents, graphite and light incense aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins, an unerring symmetry and a silky smooth finish….