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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good red-ruby color. Very ripe aromas of redcurrant and smoke. Dense and sweet but a tad rustic, with flavors of roasted dark fruits, chocolate and menthol. Offers a smooth texture, ripe acidity and sneaky length, but could use more precision of flavor and thrust.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2003 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, picked at 38hl/ha, has a lovely nose with scents of fireside hearth, black truffle and black pepper, plus plenty of open-knit black fruit underneath. The palate is medium-bodied and plush with supple tannins. Menthol notes render this a medicinal Pauillac, and in a sense, this trait occludes some of the terroir expression….

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2003 Grand Puy Lacoste initially shows a little mustiness on the nose. It’s tertiary, with gravel and vestiges of black fruit. A second bottle is much fresher and more vibrant, a success considering the vintage. White pepper and clove notes are pretty grippy, with touches of cooked meat becoming spicier towards the finish. A…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Grand Puy Lacoste initially shows a slight mustiness on the nose. It’s very tertiary, with gravel and vestiges of black fruit. A second bottle is much fresher and more vibrant, which is a success considering the vintage. Shows white pepper and clove. It’s grippy, with touches of cooked meat, becoming spicier towards the…

Constance Craving: Vin de Constance 1992-2017 (Sep 2020)

The 2007 Vin de Constance has a comparatively higher level of residual sugar at 177g/L and the highest total acidity at 8.3g/L. It is a burnished amber color and presents an intriguing, complex bouquet of burnt honey, syrup, figs and subtle earthy/peaty tones that become more prominent with aeration. The palate is as fresh as…

The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)

The 2010 Clos des Lambrays is striking. Dark cherries, plums, wild berries, spices and licorice are woven together beautifully in this highly expressive, singular wine. A cool vein of minerality is a common thread as the wine continues to take shape in the glass. There is a beguiling, mysterious quality to the finish I find…